Kumpikaitė Eglė, Varnaitė-Žuravliova Sandra, Tautkutė-Stankuvienė Indrė, Laureckienė Ginta
Department of Production Engineering, Faculty of Mechanical Engineering and Design, Kaunas University of Technology, Studentų Str. 56, LT-51424 Kaunas, Lithuania.
Center for Physical Sciences and Technology, Demokratų, Department of Textiles Physical-Chemical Testing, Str. 53, LT-48485 Kaunas, Lithuania.
Materials (Basel). 2021 May 26;14(11):2860. doi: 10.3390/ma14112860.
The behaviour of textile products made from different fibres during finishing has been investigated by many scientists, but these investigations have usually been performed with cotton or synthetic yarns and fabrics. However, the properties of raw materials such as linen and hemp (other cellulose fibres) and linen/silk (cellulose/protein fibres) have rarely been investigated. The aim of the study was to investigate and compare the mechanical (breaking force and elongation at break) and end-use (colour fastness to artificial light, area density, and abrasion resistance) properties of cellulose and cellulose/protein woven fabrics. For all fabrics, ΔE was smaller than three, which is generally imperceptible to the human eye. Flax demonstrated the best dyeability, and hemp demonstrated the poorest dyeability, comparing all the tested fabrics. The colour properties of fabrics were greatly influenced by the washing procedure, and even different fabric components of different weaves lost their colours in different ways. Flax fibres were more crystalline than hemp, and those fibres were more amorphous, which decreased the crystallinity index of flax in flax/silk blended fabric. Unwashed flax fabric was more resistant to artificial light than flax/silk or hemp fabrics. Finishing had a great influence on the abrasion resistance of fabrics. The yarn fibre composition and the finishing process for fabrics both influenced the mechanical (breaking force and elongation at break) and end-use (area density and abrasion resistance) properties of grey and finished fabrics woven from yarns made of different fibres.
许多科学家研究了不同纤维制成的纺织品在整理过程中的行为，但这些研究通常是针对棉或合成纱线及织物进行的。然而，亚麻和大麻（其他纤维素纤维）以及亚麻/丝绸（纤维素/蛋白质纤维）等原材料的特性很少被研究。本研究的目的是调查和比较纤维素及纤维素/蛋白质机织物的机械性能（断裂强力和断裂伸长率）和最终使用性能（耐人造光色牢度、面密度和耐磨性）。对于所有织物，ΔE均小于3，这在人眼通常难以察觉。在所有测试织物中，亚麻的染色性最佳，大麻的染色性最差。织物的颜色特性受洗涤程序的影响很大，甚至不同组织结构的不同织物成分褪色方式也不同。亚麻纤维比大麻纤维结晶度更高，而那些纤维更无定形，这降低了亚麻/丝绸混纺织物中亚麻的结晶度指数。未洗涤的亚麻织物比亚麻/丝绸或大麻织物更耐人造光。整理对织物的耐磨性有很大影响。纱线纤维组成和织物的整理工艺都影响了由不同纤维制成的纱线织造的坯布和整理后织物的机械性能（断裂强力和断裂伸长率）和最终使用性能（面密度和耐磨性）。
