Shiseido Co., Ltd., MIRAI Technology Institute, 1-2-11, Takashima, Nishi-ku, Yokohama, Japan.
Shiseido Co., Ltd., Brand Value R&D Institute, 1-2-11, Takashima, Nishi-ku, Yokohama, Japan.
Skin Res Technol. 2023 Jul;29(7):e13407. doi: 10.1111/srt.13407.
Skin dullness has long been a major concern of Japanese women. It is usually evaluated and judged visually by experts. Although several factors are recognized to play a role, it is unclear to what extent such physiological characteristics contribute to skin dullness. The purpose of this study is to establish an objective method for evaluation, which will assist in developing cosmetics products targeting skin dullness.
We conducted a skin measurement study on 50 Japanese women in their 30-50s, where skin dullness was visually assessed by a group of experts to obtain an average dullness score, and several skin parameters were obtained. We then developed a regression model that explains the visual assessment score using these physiological parameters.
The results of partial least squares analysis of the dullness perception and physiological characteristics showed that skin dullness can be defined by colorimetric, optical, and skin surface microtopography parameters. Additionally, the contribution of each parameter to the model was determined. Our results suggest that dullness perception is highly affected by the melanin content and yellowness of the skin, followed by skin reddishness, roughness, and translucency score, whereas glossiness has less effect. Strikingly, the contribution ratio of each parameter varied among age groups. Furthermore, we confirmed that the predicted value of skin dullness increases with age.
Our results will help the design of cosmetics targeting factors specific to age groups in developing effective solutions for skin dullness.
皮肤暗哑一直是日本女性关注的主要问题。它通常由专家进行视觉评估和判断。尽管已经认识到有几个因素起作用，但尚不清楚这些生理特征在多大程度上导致了皮肤暗哑。本研究的目的是建立一种客观的评估方法，以帮助开发针对皮肤暗哑的化妆品。
我们对 50 名 30-50 岁的日本女性进行了皮肤测量研究，由一组专家对皮肤暗哑进行视觉评估，得出平均暗哑评分，并获得了几项皮肤参数。然后，我们开发了一个使用这些生理参数解释视觉评估评分的回归模型。
对暗哑感知和生理特征的偏最小二乘分析结果表明，皮肤暗哑可以通过比色、光学和皮肤表面微观形貌参数来定义。此外，确定了每个参数对模型的贡献。我们的结果表明，暗哑感知受皮肤黑色素含量和黄色度的影响最大，其次是皮肤的红色度、粗糙度和半透明度评分，而光泽度的影响较小。值得注意的是，每个参数的贡献比例在不同年龄组之间存在差异。此外，我们还证实，皮肤暗哑的预测值随年龄增长而增加。
我们的研究结果将有助于针对特定年龄组因素设计化妆品，为解决皮肤暗哑问题提供有效方案。
