Seppic Research & Innovation, Paris La Défense, La Garenne Colombes Cedex, France.
Synelvia SAS - Prologue Biotech, Labège Cedex, France.
Int J Cosmet Sci. 2021 Dec;43(6):729-737. doi: 10.1111/ics.12748. Epub 2021 Nov 17.
Many endogenous or exogenous factors, isolated or combined, can trigger dry skin disorder, leading to a water/lipids-depleted stratum corneum concomitant with uncomfortable rough and scaly skin surface. In a defensive reaction, the alteration of the skin barrier stimulates the production of cytokines to initiate homeostasis restoration but this can also induce an inflammatory response that further weakens the barrier. The two phenomena intertwining one another lead to the creation of a vicious circle, here called Inflamm'dryness, that maintains dry skin state. It is thus very important to investigate biological mechanisms involved in Inflamm'dryness to better manage dry skin.
A 3D model mimicking dry skin has been developed. Adjustment of tape stripping level allowed to reproduce skin barrier alterations and resulting inflammation involved in dry skin. The effect of Helichrysum stoechas extract on this downward spiral was then investigated to validate the concept.
Tape-stripping permitted to successively remove the cell layers of the stratum corneum: the barrier function was altered and skin was inflamed creating a vicious circle, mimicking very dry skin prone to Inflamm'dryness. Helichrysum stoechas extract was not only able to resolve inflammation but also to reverse concurrently adverse tape-stripping effects and imparted significant structural and functional recovery of the barrier (e.g. on NMF and ceramides levels, TEWL, tissue organization).
This 3D model reproduces Inflamm'dryness vicious circle present in dry skin and highlights the importance of breaking this process to improve dry skin conditions. Helichrysum stoechas extract is a promising active ingredient for the management of dry skin.
许多内源性或外源性因素，单独或联合作用，都可能引发干燥皮肤疾病，导致角质层水分和脂质流失，同时伴有不舒适的粗糙和片状皮肤表面。作为一种防御反应，皮肤屏障的改变会刺激细胞因子的产生，以启动体内平衡的恢复，但这也可能引发炎症反应，进一步削弱屏障功能。这两种现象相互交织，导致了一个恶性循环的产生，我们称之为“干燥炎症”，使干燥皮肤状态得以维持。因此，研究“干燥炎症”中涉及的生物学机制对于更好地管理干燥皮肤非常重要。
我们开发了一种模拟干燥皮肤的 3D 模型。通过调整胶带剥离的程度，可以复制皮肤屏障的改变和由此产生的干燥皮肤炎症。然后，我们研究了 Helichrysum stoechas 提取物对这种恶性循环的影响，以验证该概念。
胶带剥离成功地去除了角质层的细胞层：屏障功能发生改变，皮肤发生炎症，形成恶性循环，模拟了极易发生“干燥炎症”的非常干燥的皮肤。Helichrysum stoechas 提取物不仅能够缓解炎症，还能够同时逆转胶带剥离的不利影响，并赋予屏障显著的结构和功能恢复（例如，对天然保湿因子和神经酰胺水平、经表皮水分流失、组织结构的影响）。
该 3D 模型再现了干燥皮肤中存在的“干燥炎症”恶性循环，并强调了打破这一过程以改善干燥皮肤状况的重要性。Helichrysum stoechas 提取物是一种有前途的干燥皮肤管理活性成分。
