Department of Kinesiology, California State University San Marcos, San Marcos, California.
J Strength Cond Res. 2022 Mar 1;36(3):832-837. doi: 10.1519/JSC.0000000000003540.
Smetanka, RG, Armenta, RF, Nessler, JA, and Newcomer, SC. Heart rate response, duration, grip strength, and anthropometric characteristics in recreational indoor rock climbers. J Strength Cond Res 36(3): 832-837, 2022-Despite the growing popularity of recreational indoor rock climbing, there is a lack of research on cardiovascular responses to rock climbing. In addition, although the importance of body composition and grip strength has been established in elite climbers, their effect on recreational climbing is unknown. Therefore, the purpose of this study was to characterize the physiological and anthropometric characteristics of indoor climbers engaging in climbing at a recreational or noncompetitive setting. We hypothesized that heart rates and climbing durations would meet the standards set by the American College of Sports Medicine (ACSM) and Center for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC) for eliciting health benefits and that grip strength would decrease over the course of a typical climbing session. One hundred twenty-one male and female adult recreational climbers participated in this study. Following informed consent, subjects were instrumented with a heart rate monitor (Polar V800) which recorded heart rate and duration. Preclimb and postclimb grip strength were evaluated using a hand grip dynamometer and used to calculate fatigue. Subjects were 30.9 ± 8.3 years old and had participated in climbing for 5.6 ± 6.5 years. The average heart rate during climbing sessions was 122.3 ± 14.5 b·min-1, and session duration was 90.6 ± 31.3 minutes. Mean grip strength was 49.9 ± 11.2 kg, whereas the strength to mass ratio was 0.71 ± 0.14, and fatigue was 13.1 ± 11.6%. Results from the current study suggest that recreational indoor climbing elicits exercise heart rates and durations that are consistent with the CDC and ACSM's recommendations for cardiovascular health. Grip strength data suggested that forearm muscle fatigue may limit climbing durations.
斯梅坦卡、RG、阿尔门塔、RF、内斯勒、JA 和纽科默、SC。休闲室内攀岩者的心率反应、持续时间、握力和人体测量特征。J 力量与调节研究 36(3)：832-837，2022 年-尽管休闲室内攀岩越来越受欢迎，但关于攀岩的心血管反应的研究还很缺乏。此外，尽管身体成分和握力对精英攀岩者的重要性已经确立，但它们对休闲攀岩的影响尚不清楚。因此，本研究的目的是描述在休闲或非竞技环境中进行攀岩的室内攀岩者的生理和人体测量特征。我们假设心率和攀爬持续时间将达到美国运动医学学院（ACSM）和疾病控制与预防中心（CDC）设定的标准，以产生健康益处，并且握力在典型的攀爬过程中会下降。121 名男性和女性成年休闲攀岩者参加了这项研究。在获得知情同意后，受试者使用心率监测器（Polar V800）进行仪器测量，记录心率和持续时间。使用握力计评估攀爬前和攀爬后的握力，并用于计算疲劳度。受试者年龄为 30.9±8.3 岁，参加攀岩运动的时间为 5.6±6.5 年。攀爬过程中的平均心率为 122.3±14.5 b·min-1，持续时间为 90.6±31.3 分钟。平均握力为 49.9±11.2kg，而力量与体重的比值为 0.71±0.14，疲劳度为 13.1±11.6%。本研究结果表明，休闲室内攀岩产生的运动心率和持续时间与 CDC 和 ACSM 推荐的心血管健康一致。握力数据表明，前臂肌肉疲劳可能限制攀爬持续时间。
