Institute of Sport Science, Otto-von-Guericke University, Zschokkestr. 32, D-39106 Magdeburg, Germany.
Department of Intervention Research in Exercise Training, Institute of Exercise Training and Sport Informatics, German Sport University Cologne, Am Sportpark Müngersdorf 6, D-50933 Cologne, Germany.
Int J Environ Res Public Health. 2020 Dec 19;17(24):9530. doi: 10.3390/ijerph17249530.
The present study investigated the time course of repetitive maximal isometric grip strength, depending on the arm position, laterality (dominant vs. non-dominant side), and climbing level. The intervention aimed to provide a feasible indicator of maximal strength-endurance in climbing. Seventeen recreational (climbing level (CL): 6.8 (SD 0.5) on the Union Internationale des Associations d'Alpinisme (UIAA) metric scale) and eleven ambitious (CL: 8.7 (SD 0.6) UIAA metric scale) climbers (age: 27 (8) years; BMI: 21.6 (1.9) kg/m; ape index (arm span divided by body height): 1.05 (0.18); training volume: 2.2 (1.0) h/week). Participants completed maximal isometric handgrip strength (F) tests in four positions (left and right hand beside the trunk as well as left and right hand above the shoulder) plus twelve repetitive work-relief cycles, lasting 4 and 1 s where isometric strength, heart rate, and perceived exertion were recorded. F differed between groups in nearly all positions. A large side × position × time × group interaction was observed for repetitive isometric grip strength ( = 0.009, η = 0.71). However, subsequent post-hoc tests did not reveal a significant difference between groups during each testing position. Additional correlation analysis between asymmetry and CL showed an inverse relationship for ambitious climbers (r = -0.71). In conclusion, the degree of grip strength decline did not relevantly differentiate between ambitious and recreational climbers. Thus, the time course of handgrip strength seems to mainly rely on maximal grip strength during the first contraction.
本研究调查了依赖手臂位置、优势侧和非优势侧以及攀爬水平的重复最大等长握力的时间进程。该干预旨在提供一种可行的攀爬最大力量耐力指标。17 名休闲(攀爬水平(CL):6.8(SD 0.5)在国际登山联合会(UIAA)度量量表上)和 11 名雄心勃勃的(CL:8.7(SD 0.6)UIAA 度量量表)登山者(年龄:27(8)岁;BMI:21.6(1.9)kg/m;臂展与身高之比(APE 指数):1.05(0.18);训练量:2.2(1.0)小时/周)。参与者在四个位置(躯干两侧的左手和右手以及肩部以上的左手和右手)完成了最大等长握力(F)测试,外加 12 个重复的工作缓解周期,持续 4 和 1 s,记录等长力量、心率和感知用力。几乎所有位置的 F 在组间均存在差异。在重复等长握力方面,观察到了较大的侧×位置×时间×组间交互作用(= 0.009,η= 0.71)。然而,随后的事后检验并未在每个测试位置显示出组间的显著差异。雄心勃勃的登山者之间的不对称性和 CL 之间的相关性分析显示出负相关(r = -0.71)。总之,握力下降的程度并没有在雄心勃勃的和休闲的登山者之间产生明显的差异。因此,握力的时间进程似乎主要依赖于第一次收缩时的最大握力。