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通过维持和改善屏障功能,为敏感皮肤提供特定的环境应激防护。

Specific protection of sensitive skin against environmental stress by maintenance and improvement of barrier function.

机构信息

R&D Pierre Fabre Dermo-Cosmétique Toulouse, Toulouse, France.

出版信息

J Eur Acad Dermatol Venereol. 2022 Apr;36 Suppl 5:13-20. doi: 10.1111/jdv.17910.

DOI:10.1111/jdv.17910
PMID:35315151
Abstract

BACKGROUND

Sensitive skin is a common condition that can severely impact quality of life. Several mechanisms are thought to be involved, including those affecting the skin barrier function, hydration and skin innervation.

OBJECTIVES

To investigate the benefit of cream and balm formulations dedicated to sensitive skin and containing Aquaphilus dolomiae extract-G3 (ADE-G3) on skin barrier functions (lipid composition, pH, TEWL), as well as protective responses to dry and pollution stresses.

METHODS

In vitro sensitized (using histamine) reconstructed human epidermis (RHE) were subjected to dehydration and pollution stress in the absence and presence of the formulations. Endpoint measurements included transepithelial electric resistance (TEER), stratum corneum protein expression and lipid contents. Clinical measurements included transepithelial water loss (TEWL), skin pH and the lipid index.

RESULTS

When applied in cream and balm formulations, ADE-G3, increased the TEER in sensitized RHEs. In non-sensitized dehydrated RHEs, both formulations increased recovery of skin barrier integrity after dehydration, evident as a return of the ratios of filaggrin/profilaggrin and caspase-14/procaspase-14 to values measured in control non-stressed RHEs, as well as reducing the 'natural moisturizing factor' to control levels. In clinical studies performed on dry human skin, the formulations helped to maintain and improve the skin barrier function. This was evident as an intense and sustained moisturization (total lipids and lipid esters were increased), an increase in pH and a decrease in the TEWL by both formulations. When exposed to pollution stress by treating the models with benzo[a]pyrene and airborne particulate matter (PM10), application of both formulations prior to exposure attenuated the induction of CYP1A1, CYP1B1 and UGT1A7 expression, indicating a protective effect.

CONCLUSIONS

ADE-G3 cream and balm formulations increased the hydration of the skin but also protected and improved the skin barrier integrity of sensitive skin exposed to dry and cold and airborne pollutant-induced stress environments.

摘要

背景

敏感皮肤是一种常见病症,会严重影响生活质量。人们认为有几种机制与此相关,包括影响皮肤屏障功能、皮肤水合作用和皮肤神经支配的机制。

目的

研究专门针对敏感皮肤并含有 Aquaphilus dolomiae 提取物-G3(ADE-G3)的乳膏和膏剂配方对皮肤屏障功能(脂质组成、pH 值、TEWL)的益处,以及对干燥和污染应激的保护反应。

方法

体外敏化(使用组氨酸)的重建人表皮(RHE)在不存在和存在制剂的情况下进行脱水和污染应激。终点测量包括跨上皮电阻(TEER)、角质层蛋白表达和脂质含量。临床测量包括经皮水分流失(TEWL)、皮肤 pH 值和脂质指数。

结果

当以乳膏和膏剂配方应用时,ADE-G3 增加了敏化 RHE 的 TEER。在非敏化脱水 RHE 中,两种配方均增加了脱水后皮肤屏障完整性的恢复,表现为丝聚蛋白/原丝聚蛋白和半胱天冬酶-14/前半胱天冬酶-14的比值恢复到对照非应激 RHE 中测量的值,以及将“天然保湿因子”降低到对照水平。在对干燥人体皮肤进行的临床研究中,这些配方有助于维持和改善皮肤屏障功能。这表现为强烈和持续的保湿(总脂质和脂质酯增加)、pH 值增加和两种配方均可减少 TEWL。当用苯并[a]芘和空气颗粒物(PM10)处理模型来暴露于污染应激时,在暴露之前应用两种配方可减轻 CYP1A1、CYP1B1 和 UGT1A7 表达的诱导,表明具有保护作用。

结论

ADE-G3 乳膏和膏剂配方增加了皮肤的水分,但也保护和改善了暴露于干燥、寒冷和空气污染物诱导应激环境的敏感皮肤的屏障完整性。

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