Cosmetics Safety and Efficacy Evaluation Center, West China Hospital, Sichuan University, No. 5, Gong Xing Road, Chengdu, Sichuan, 610041, China; Department of Dermatology, West China Hospital, Sichuan University, No. 37, Guo Xue Xiang, Chengdu, Sichuan, 610041, China; Sichuan Engineering Technology Research Center of Cosmetic, Chengdu, Sichuan, 610041, China.
Cosmetics Safety and Efficacy Evaluation Center, West China Hospital, Sichuan University, No. 5, Gong Xing Road, Chengdu, Sichuan, 610041, China; Sichuan Engineering Technology Research Center of Cosmetic, Chengdu, Sichuan, 610041, China.
Biomed Pharmacother. 2021 Feb;134:111161. doi: 10.1016/j.biopha.2020.111161. Epub 2020 Dec 24.
Artificial sunscreens are already gaining traction in order to protect the skin from sunburns, photoaging and photocarcinogenesis. However, the efficacy and safety of most artificial sunscreen constituents are hindered by their photostability, toxicity and damage to marine ecosystems. Natural selection and evolution have ensured that plants and animals have developed effective protective mechanisms against the deleterious side effects of oxidative stress and ultraviolet radiation (UV). Hence, natural antioxidants such as sun blockers are drawing considerable attention. The exact mechanism by which natural components act as sunscreen molecules has not been clearly established. However, conjugated π system is reported to play an important role in protecting the vital genetic material within the organism. Compared to artificial sunscreens, natural sunscreens with strong UV absorptive capacities are largely limited by low specific extinction value and by their inability to spread in large-scale sunscreen cosmetic applications. Previous studies have documented that natural components exert their photoprotective effects (such as improved skin elasticity and hydration, skin texture, and wrinkles) through their antioxidant effects, and through the regulation of UV-induced skin inflammation, barrier impairment and aging. This review focuses on natural antioxidant topical formulations with sun protection factor (SPF). Lignin, melanin, silymarin and other ingredients have been added to high sun protection nature sunscreens without any physical or chemical UV filters. This paper also provides a reference for adopting novel technical measures (extracting high content components, changing the type of solution, optimizing formulation, applying Nano technology, et al) to design and prepare nature sunscreen formulations equated with commercial sunscreen formulations. Another strategy is to add natural antioxidants from plants, animals, microorganisms and marine organisms as special enhancer or modifier ingredients to reinforce SPF values. Although the photoprotective effects of natural components have been established, their deleterious side effects have not been elucidated.
人工防晒霜已经在为保护皮肤免受晒伤、光老化和光致癌作用而获得关注。然而，大多数人工防晒霜成分的功效和安全性都受到其光稳定性、毒性和对海洋生态系统的损害的限制。自然选择和进化确保了植物和动物已经开发出有效的保护机制，以防止氧化应激和紫外线辐射（UV）的有害副作用。因此，天然抗氧化剂如防晒剂引起了相当大的关注。天然成分作为防晒霜分子的作用的确切机制尚未明确确定。然而，报道共轭π系统在保护生物体内重要遗传物质方面起着重要作用。与人工防晒霜相比，具有强紫外线吸收能力的天然防晒霜在很大程度上受到低比消光值和在大规模防晒霜化妆品应用中无法扩散的限制。先前的研究记录表明，天然成分通过其抗氧化作用以及通过调节 UV 诱导的皮肤炎症、屏障损伤和衰老，发挥其光保护作用（如改善皮肤弹性和保湿、皮肤质地和皱纹）。本综述重点介绍了具有防晒因子（SPF）的天然抗氧化剂局部制剂。已经向高防晒天然防晒霜中添加了木质素、黑色素、水飞蓟素和其他成分，而没有任何物理或化学紫外线过滤器。本文还为采用新的技术措施（提取高含量成分、改变溶液类型、优化配方、应用纳米技术等）设计和制备与商业防晒霜制剂等效的天然防晒霜制剂提供了参考。另一种策略是添加来自植物、动物、微生物和海洋生物的天然抗氧化剂作为特殊增强剂或改性剂成分，以增强 SPF 值。尽管已经确定了天然成分的光保护作用，但它们的有害副作用尚未阐明。
