R&D Division, Kewpie Corporation, Chofu, Japan.
Laboratory of Dermatological Physiology, Department of Pharmaceutical Sciences, Faculty of Pharmacy and Pharmaceutical Sciences, Josai University, Sakado, Japan.
J Cosmet Dermatol. 2023 Jan;22(1):320-327. doi: 10.1111/jocd.15097. Epub 2022 Jun 21.
BACKGROUND/AIMS: Hyaluronan (HA) oligosaccharides are involved in several biological processes, primarily collagen remodeling and wound healing. Collagen remodeling is retarded in aging skin and causes wrinkles. The aim of this study was to evaluate the effect of 2-kDa HA oligosaccharides (HA2k) on wrinkles by permeation through the stratum corneum and promotion of collagen remodeling.
A 3D skin model and excised human skin were used to evaluate the permeation of fluorescein-labeled HA2k. The effect of HA2k on collagen metabolism was evaluated by measuring the protein level of type 1 pro-collagen (COL1A1) and matrix metalloproteinase-1 (MMP-1) in the 3D skin model. 0.1% HA2k solution and vehicle control was applied to the human forearm for 8 weeks to evaluate dermal collagen density. To evaluate the effect of HA2k on depth of facial wrinkles, a randomized controlled trial was conducted with 0.1% HA2k lotion and vehicle lotion for 8 weeks.
HA2k was confirmed to permeate through the stratum corneum by fluorescent microscopy. Both COL1A1 and MMP-1 were upregulated by HA2k application in a 3D skin model culture. The collagen density was higher for the HA2k-treated forearm than for the vehicle control-treated forearm after 4 weeks. The maximum wrinkle depths in the nasolabial fold and crow's feet area were significantly shallower in the HA2k lotion group than in the control group.
HA2k permeated the stratum corneum, activated collagen synthesis and degradation simultaneously, and ameliorated wrinkles.
背景/目的：透明质酸（HA）寡糖参与多种生物过程，主要是胶原重塑和伤口愈合。衰老皮肤中的胶原重塑受到抑制，导致皱纹的产生。本研究旨在通过角质层渗透和促进胶原重塑来评估 2kDaHA 寡糖（HA2k）对皱纹的作用。
使用 3D 皮肤模型和离体人皮肤评估荧光素标记的 HA2k 的渗透情况。通过测量 3D 皮肤模型中 I 型前胶原（COL1A1）和基质金属蛋白酶-1（MMP-1）的蛋白水平来评估 HA2k 对胶原代谢的影响。将 0.1%HA2k 溶液和载体对照应用于人体前臂 8 周，以评估真皮胶原密度。为了评估 HA2k 对面部皱纹深度的影响，进行了一项随机对照试验，使用 0.1%HA2k 洗剂和载体洗剂 8 周。
荧光显微镜证实 HA2k 可透过角质层。HA2k 应用于 3D 皮肤模型培养物中，可同时上调 COL1A1 和 MMP-1。经过 4 周后，HA2k 处理的前臂真皮胶原密度高于载体对照处理的前臂。鼻唇沟和鱼尾纹区域的最大皱纹深度在 HA2k 洗剂组明显比对照组浅。
HA2k 透过角质层，同时激活胶原合成和降解，改善皱纹。
