Augste Claudia, Winkler Marvin, Künzell Stefan
Faculty of Philosophy and Social Sciences, Institute for Sport Science, University of Augsburg, Augsburg, Germany.
Front Sports Act Living. 2022 May 23;4:902521. doi: 10.3389/fspor.2022.902521. eCollection 2022.
Performance diagnostics of finger strength is very relevant in climbing. The aim of our study was to find modalities for an intermittent finger flexor muscle endurance test that optimize the correlation of test performance with lead climbing performance. Twenty-seven female and 25 male climbers pulled with 60% MVC and a work-to-rest ratio of 7:2 s on a fingerboard until fatigue. The highest correlations, = 0.429, were found for women when 9% deviation in the required force and 1 s deviation in the required pulling time was tolerated. For men, the optimum was reached with the same time deviation and a force deviation of 6%, = 0.691. Together with maximum finger strength the repetitions explained 31.5% of the variance of climbing ability in women and 46.3% in men. Consequences from our results are to tolerate at least 7% force deviation for women and 5% for men and to terminate the finger endurance test quickly after the force falls below the threshold.
手指力量的性能诊断在攀岩运动中非常重要。我们研究的目的是找到一种间歇性手指屈肌耐力测试的方式，以优化测试表现与先锋攀登表现之间的相关性。27名女性和25名男性攀岩者在指力板上以60%的最大随意收缩力量（MVC）和7:2秒的工作-休息比进行拉伸，直至疲劳。当允许所需力量有9%的偏差和所需拉伸时间有1秒的偏差时，女性的相关性最高，为r = 0.429。对于男性，在相同的时间偏差和6%的力量偏差下达到最佳，r = 0.691。结合最大手指力量，重复次数解释了女性攀岩能力方差的31.5%和男性的46.3%。我们的结果表明，女性至少应容忍7%的力量偏差，男性为5%；并且当力量降至阈值以下后，应迅速终止手指耐力测试。
