Departamento de Biologia Vegetal, Faculdade de Ciências da Universidade de Lisboa, C2, Campo Grande, 1749-016 Lisbon, Portugal.
Research Institute for Medicines (iMed.UL), Faculty of Pharmacy, Universidade de Lisboa, 1649-003 Lisbon, Portugal.
Molecules. 2022 Jun 2;27(11):3572. doi: 10.3390/molecules27113572.
Essential oils (EOs) and hydrolates (Hds) are natural sources of biologically active ingredients with broad applications in the cosmetic industry. In this study, nationally produced (mainland Portugal and Azores archipelago) EOs (11) and Hds (7) obtained from forest logging and thinning of , , and , were chemically evaluated, and their bioactivity and sensorial properties were assessed. EOs and Hd volatiles (HdVs) were analyzed by GC-FID and GC-MS. 1,8-Cineole was dominant in EOs and HdVs, and α- and β-pinene in EOs. Limonene and α-pinene led in and EOs, respectively. and HVs were dominated by α-terpineol and terpinen-4-ol, respectively. The antioxidant activity was determined by DPPH, ORAC and ROS. EO showed the highest antioxidant activity, whereas one of the EOs showed the lowest. Antimicrobial activity results revealed different levels of efficacy for and EOs while EO showed no antimicrobial activity against the selected strains. The perception and applicability of emulsions with 0.5% of EOs were evaluated through an in vivo sensory study. emulsion, which has a fresh and earthy odour, was chosen as the most pleasant fragrance (60%), followed by emulsion (53%). In summary, some of the studied EOs and Hds showed antioxidant and antimicrobial activities and they are possible candidates to address the consumers demand for more sustainable and responsibly sourced ingredients.
精油(EOs)和水醇(Hds)是具有广泛应用于化妆品行业的生物活性成分的天然来源。在这项研究中,对产自葡萄牙本土和亚速尔群岛的 11 种精油(EOs)和 7 种水醇(Hds)进行了化学评估,并评估了它们的生物活性和感官特性。通过 GC-FID 和 GC-MS 分析了 EOs 和 HdVs 的挥发性成分。1,8-桉油醇在 种精油和 HdVs 中占主导地位,α-和β-蒎烯在 种精油中占主导地位。柠檬烯和α-蒎烯分别在 种和 种精油中占主导地位。和 HdVs 分别以α-萜品醇和萜品-4-醇为主。通过 DPPH、ORAC 和 ROS 测定了抗氧化活性。EO 表现出最高的抗氧化活性,而一种 EO 表现出最低的抗氧化活性。抗菌活性结果表明,对 种和 种 EOs 的功效水平不同,而 种 EO 对所选菌株没有抗菌活性。通过体内感官研究评估了含有 0.5%EOs 的乳液的感知和适用性。具有清新泥土气味的 乳液被选为最宜人的香气(60%),其次是 乳液(53%)。总之,一些研究中的 EOs 和 Hds 表现出抗氧化和抗菌活性,它们可能是满足消费者对更可持续和负责任地获取成分的需求的候选者。