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生命周期评估应对纺织品生产中的“取-用-弃”范式。

Life cycle assessment to tackle the take-make-waste paradigm in the textiles production.

机构信息

Department of Economics, Management and Business Law, University of Bari Aldo Moro, Largo Abbazia Santa Scolastica, 70124 Bari, Italy.

Department of Economics, Management and Business Law, University of Bari Aldo Moro, Largo Abbazia Santa Scolastica, 70124 Bari, Italy.

出版信息

Waste Manag. 2022 Sep;151:10-27. doi: 10.1016/j.wasman.2022.07.032. Epub 2022 Jul 31.

DOI:10.1016/j.wasman.2022.07.032
PMID:35921744
Abstract

Under the environmental perspective, textiles represent the fourth highest pressure commodity worldwide. In Europe, it is estimated that over 95 Mt of textile waste are generated along the entire supply chain, with still high percentages of textiles addressed to landfill or incineration. The present research, through a systematic literature review on textiles production and consumption, investigates their environmental concerns assessed through the application of the life cycle assessment. Considering the importance of identifying the products' life cycle hotspots on which actions are needed to reduce the overall impact, the manuscript focuses on the environmental performance related to the cradle-to-grave phases of textile products differentiated by type, composition, and intended use. It results that the production and use phases are those responsible for the greatest share of negative impacts, while the end-of-life generally has a small contribution. Distribution and consumption phases are less investigated, and considering the emerging consumption patterns (e.g., sharing and renting platforms), it seems essential to collect data. Circular practices can bring benefits under the environmental perspective, but in-depth studies are still required to estimate the shift of impacts from one phase of the life cycle to another. Overall, there is a paucity of studies comparing the use of different fibers, ownership models, manufacturing and disposal processes for the same functional unit, or data that would be necessary for low-impact design. The topic is still under-researched among academics and practitioners of the textile industry.

摘要

从环境角度来看,纺织品是全球第四大高压力商品。在欧洲,据估计,整个供应链每年产生的纺织废料超过 950 万吨,仍有很大比例的纺织品被送往垃圾填埋场或焚烧。本研究通过对纺织品生产和消费的系统文献综述,调查了通过生命周期评估评估的其环境问题。考虑到确定产品生命周期热点的重要性,这些热点需要采取行动来降低整体影响,本文重点关注了与纺织品产品从摇篮到坟墓各个阶段相关的环境性能,这些产品按类型、组成和预期用途进行了区分。结果表明,生产和使用阶段是造成最大负面影响的阶段,而生命周期的末端阶段通常贡献较小。分配和消费阶段的研究较少,考虑到新兴的消费模式(例如,共享和租赁平台),收集数据似乎至关重要。从环境角度来看,循环实践可以带来好处,但仍需要深入研究来估计生命周期各个阶段的影响转移。总体而言,缺乏比较不同纤维的使用、拥有模式、制造和处置工艺的研究,对于低影响设计来说,还需要更多的数据。学术界和纺织业从业者对这个话题的研究仍然不足。

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