Universidade Federal do Tocantins - UFT, Programa de Pós-graduação em Ciências do Ambiente, Laboratório de Química, Palmas, TO, Brasil.
Universidade Estadual Paulista "Júlio de Mesquita Filho" - UNESP, Departamento de Fármacos e Medicamentos, Programa de Pós-graduação em Ciências Farmacêuticas, Laboratório de Cosmetologia, Araraquara, SP, Brasil.
Braz J Biol. 2022 Oct 21;82:e264677. doi: 10.1590/1519-6984.264677. eCollection 2022.
Sodium lauryl sulfate is the main cleaning ingredient in shampoos, even though it may be potentially damaging to hair. The demand for antioxidant-rich cosmetics, on the other hand, has encouraged green cosmetics research. Brazil has vast biodiversity that can be exploited for the production of these cosmetics. This work aimed to develop a minimalist antioxidant lauryl-free shampoo formulation with leaf extracts from the Brazilian plant Hancornia speciosa Gomes. Two hydroethanolic extracts were prepared using different extraction methods, Soxhlet, and ultrasound. The extracts were characterized by the presence of saponins, polyphenol quantification, and HLPC chemical identification of the compounds. Antioxidant activity was determined using the DPPH method. The antioxidant lauryl-free shampoo was developed using hydroxyethyl cellulose with two concentrations of leaf extract obtained by Soxhlet, 0.125 mg/g (XP1) and 0.250 mg/g (XP2). Along with the antioxidant activity, the physical and chemical properties, cleaning potential, and foam quality were evaluated. The Soxhlet leaf extract revealed a more favorable chemical profile, including a positive result for saponins, as well as a larger quantity of polyphenols and increased antioxidant activity. The XP2 formulation showed better foam height, dirt dispersion, and antioxidant activity. Thus, the use of mangabeira leaf extract appears to be promising for the development of shampoos with antioxidant activity.
月桂基硫酸钠是洗发水的主要清洁成分，尽管它可能对头发有潜在的损害。另一方面，对富含抗氧化剂的化妆品的需求促使了绿色化妆品研究的发展。巴西拥有丰富的生物多样性，可以利用这些资源来生产这些化妆品。本工作旨在开发一种极简主义的、不含月桂醇的抗氧化洗发水配方，其中含有巴西植物汉考尼亚 speciosa Gomes 的叶提取物。使用索氏提取和超声两种不同的提取方法制备了两种水醇提取物。提取物的特征在于存在皂甙、多酚定量和 HLPC 化合物的化学鉴定。使用 DPPH 法测定了抗氧化活性。使用羟乙基纤维素和通过索氏提取获得的两种浓度的叶提取物（XP1 和 XP2）开发了不含月桂醇的抗氧化洗发水。除了抗氧化活性外，还评估了物理化学性质、清洁潜力和泡沫质量。索氏提取的叶提取物显示出更有利的化学特征，包括皂甙呈阳性结果，以及多酚含量增加和抗氧化活性增强。XP2 配方表现出更好的泡沫高度、污垢分散和抗氧化活性。因此，使用 mangabeira 叶提取物似乎有望开发具有抗氧化活性的洗发水。
