Valpaços Camila, Leclerc-Mercier Stéphanie, Lopes Luana, Svoboda Diego, Miranda Daniele, Correia Priscila, Junior José, Fernandes Erika, Francois-Newton Veronique, Mandary Madiiha Bibi, Gueniche Audrey, Tan Jerry, Kerob Delphine
Centre International de Développement Pharmaceutique (Research Institute), Rio de Janeiro, Brazil.
Vichy Laboratoires, Levallois-Perret, France.
Clin Cosmet Investig Dermatol. 2023 Feb 10;16:375-385. doi: 10.2147/CCID.S396952. eCollection 2023.
Tretinoin is a topical gold standard for photoaging treatment. However, patient adherence can be impaired by local tolerability in the first 1-2 weeks of treatment. Mineral 89 Probiotic Fractions (M89PF) containing Vichy volcanic mineralizing water, probiotic fractions, hyaluronic acid, niacinamide and tocopherol was developed to fulfill the need for adjunctive products that can reinforce skin barrier and manage retinoid induced irritation.
The study included 38 women, aged 44-60 years, phototype II-VI, applying 0.025% tretinoin gel once nightly for 84 days. For 28 days, one hemi face was treated with M89PF and sunscreen SPF 50+ while other hemi face received sunscreen only. Then, M89PF application was changed to full face. Evaluations were performed at days 0, 7, 28 and 84. Erythema, dryness, fine lines, skin tone, radiance and pore appearance were assessed by a dermatologist. Tolerability was evaluated through self-assessment questionnaire. Skin hydration levels, inflammatory and oxidative stress biomarkers were analyzed by immunological assay: Interleukin(IL)-8, IL1-alpha, IL1-Receptor Antagonist (IL-1Ra), Prostaglandin E2 (PGE2), Catalase and Superoxide Dismutase (SOD).
Hemiface analysis showed that erythema, fine lines, skin tone, radiance, pore appearance, hydration, tightness, dryness, burning, itching and stinging sensations were improved (p<0.05) on the M89PF side. At full face analysis on D84, erythema, fine lines, skin tone, radiance and pore appearance were improved compared to D0 (p<0.001). Tightness, dryness, burning, itching and stinging were reduced when compared to D7 (p<0.05). Dermatology Life Quality Index (DLQI) and Skindex 16 showed improvement in quality of life (p<0.05). IL-1RA increased at D28 (p=0.003) and PGE2 decreased at D28 and D84 compared to D0 (p<0.01).
M89PF reduced retinoid induced irritation with a good tolerability profile and, used as an adjunct to topical tretinoin, significantly improved skin hydration, erythema, fine lines, skin tone, radiance and pore appearance.
维甲酸是光老化治疗的局部金标准。然而,在治疗的前1 - 2周,局部耐受性可能会影响患者的依从性。含有薇姿火山矿化水、益生菌成分、透明质酸、烟酰胺和生育酚的矿物89益生菌成分(M89PF)被开发出来,以满足对辅助产品的需求,这些产品可以增强皮肤屏障并管理维甲酸引起的刺激。
该研究纳入了38名年龄在44 - 60岁之间、皮肤类型为II - VI型的女性,每晚一次涂抹0.025%维甲酸凝胶,持续84天。在28天内,一侧半脸用M89PF和防晒指数为50+的防晒霜治疗,而另一侧半脸仅使用防晒霜。然后,M89PF的涂抹改为全脸。在第0、7、28和84天进行评估。由皮肤科医生评估红斑、干燥、细纹、肤色、光泽和毛孔外观。通过自我评估问卷评估耐受性。通过免疫测定分析皮肤水合水平、炎症和氧化应激生物标志物:白细胞介素(IL)-8、IL1-α、IL1受体拮抗剂(IL-1Ra)、前列腺素E2(PGE2)、过氧化氢酶和超氧化物歧化酶(SOD)。
半脸分析显示,M89PF侧的红斑、细纹、肤色、光泽、毛孔外观、水合、紧绷、干燥、灼烧、瘙痒和刺痛感均有改善(p<0.05)。在第84天的全脸分析中,与第0天相比,红斑、细纹、肤色、光泽和毛孔外观均有改善(p<0.001)。与第7天相比,紧绷、干燥、灼烧、瘙痒和刺痛感有所减轻(p<0.05)。皮肤病生活质量指数(DLQI)和Skindex 16显示生活质量有所改善(p<0.05)。与第0天相比,IL-1RA在第28天增加(p = 0.003),PGE2在第28天和第84天下降(p<0.01)。
M89PF降低了维甲酸引起的刺激,具有良好的耐受性,作为局部维甲酸的辅助用药,显著改善了皮肤水合、红斑、细纹、肤色、光泽和毛孔外观。