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化妆品中阿萨伊油有机凝胶:微观结构、稳定性、流变学及力学性能

Organogel of Acai Oil in Cosmetics: Microstructure, Stability, Rheology and Mechanical Properties.

作者信息

Sanches Suellen Christtine da Costa, Ré Maria Inês, Silva-Júnior José Otávio Carréra, Ribeiro-Costa Roseane Maria

机构信息

Laboratory of Pharmaceutical Nanotechnology, College of Pharmacy, Federal University of Pará, Belém 66075-110, Brazil.

IMT Mines Albi-Carmaux, CNRS UMR 5302, Centre RAPSODEE, Campus Jarlard, Université de Toulouse, CEDEX 09, 81013 Albi, France.

出版信息

Gels. 2023 Feb 10;9(2):150. doi: 10.3390/gels9020150.

Abstract

Organogel (OG) is a semi-solid material composed of gelling molecules organized in the presence of an appropriate organic solvent, through physical or chemical interactions, in a continuous net. This investigation aimed at preparing and characterizing an organogel from acai oil with hyaluronic acid (HA) structured by 12-hydroxystearic acid (12-HSA), aiming at topical anti-aging application. Organogels containing or not containing HA were analyzed by Fourier-transform Infrared Spectroscopy, polarized light optical microscopy, thermal analysis, texture analysis, rheology, HA quantification and oxidative stability. The organogel containing hyaluronic acid (OG + HA) has a spherulitic texture morphology with a net-like structure and absorption bands that evidenced the presence of HA in the three-dimensional net of organogel. The thermal analysis confirmed the gelation and the insertion of HA, as well as a good thermal stability, which is also confirmed by the study of oxidative stability carried out under different temperature conditions for 90 days. The texture and rheology studies indicated a viscoelastic behavior. HA quantification shows the efficiency of the HA cross-linking process in the three-dimensional net of organogel with 11.22 µg/mL for cross-linked HA. Thus, it is concluded that OG + HA shows potentially promising physicochemical characteristics for the development of a cosmetic system.

摘要

有机凝胶(OG)是一种半固体材料,由凝胶化分子在适当的有机溶剂存在下,通过物理或化学相互作用,形成连续网络结构。本研究旨在制备并表征一种由阿萨伊油与透明质酸(HA)组成、以12-羟基硬脂酸(12-HSA)构建结构的有机凝胶,用于局部抗老化应用。对含或不含HA的有机凝胶进行了傅里叶变换红外光谱、偏光光学显微镜、热分析、质地分析、流变学、HA定量和氧化稳定性分析。含透明质酸的有机凝胶(OG + HA)具有球晶质地形态,呈网状结构,其吸收带证明了HA存在于有机凝胶的三维网络中。热分析证实了凝胶化以及HA的插入,同时具有良好的热稳定性,在不同温度条件下进行90天的氧化稳定性研究也证实了这一点。质地和流变学研究表明其具有粘弹性行为。HA定量显示,在有机凝胶的三维网络中,HA交联过程的效率为交联HA 11.22 µg/mL。因此,得出结论,OG + HA在开发化妆品体系方面显示出潜在的有前景的物理化学特性。

https://cdn.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/blobs/3897/9956281/7f79175ea8c6/gels-09-00150-g001.jpg

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