Baldi M, Reynaud R, Lefevre F, Fleury M, Scandolera A, Maramaldi G
Humanitas Gavazzeni, Bergamo, Italy.
Eur Rev Med Pharmacol Sci. 2023 Feb;27(4):1450-1466. doi: 10.26355/eurrev_202302_31385.
Recently, many plant-derived bioactive agents have been included in dermo-cosmetics formulations. This leads to an extensive portfolio of innovative products with an expanded range of benefits, including anti-aging, antioxidant, hydrating and depigmenting. Although different technologies drawing on science and nature are used to create these high-performing molecules, there remains some debate about the mechanism of action of the natural bioactive ingredients within dermo-cosmetics. This review recapitulates the main biological mechanisms underlying the activity of natural active ingredients, with a specific focus on their synergistic use for the management of common, yet quite specific, skin conditions. A total of 28 plant-derived bioactives were selected from the Givaudan Active Beauty (Argenteuil, France) portfolio, a multinational company specializing in innovative natural actives research. An extensive literature review about their biological activity was conducted by a PubMed search using different keywords. No language or publication date restrictions were used. Givaudan Active Beauty data on file were also considered. The bioactive ingredients were described according to the pathogenetic mechanisms underlying 10 common skin conditions that dermo-cosmetics may address. Literature data have shown that plant-derived bioactives are involved in a wide range of biological mechanisms showing anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and moisturizing properties, along with skin barrier protection and collagen synthesis activities. As a result, different combinations of bioactives within dermo-cosmetics can be defined to counteract simultaneously the different pathogenetic mechanisms underlying different skin conditions. Available literature supports the synergistic use of plant-derived bioactive agents within dermo-cosmetics as a viable and safe option for managing the most common skin conditions.
最近，许多植物源生物活性剂已被纳入皮肤化妆品配方中。这带来了一系列创新产品，其益处范围得到扩展，包括抗老化、抗氧化、保湿和美白。尽管利用科学和天然的不同技术被用于制造这些高性能分子，但对于皮肤化妆品中天然生物活性成分的作用机制仍存在一些争议。本综述概述了天然活性成分活性背后的主要生物学机制，特别关注它们在管理常见但相当特殊的皮肤状况中的协同使用。从吉万特活性美容公司（法国阿让特伊）的产品组合中总共挑选了28种植物源生物活性物质，该公司是一家专门从事创新天然活性成分研究的跨国公司。通过使用不同关键词在PubMed上进行搜索，对它们的生物活性进行了广泛的文献综述。未设置语言或出版日期限制。也考虑了吉万特活性美容公司存档的数据。根据皮肤化妆品可能解决的10种常见皮肤状况的发病机制对生物活性成分进行了描述。文献数据表明，植物源生物活性物质参与了广泛的生物学机制，具有抗炎、抗氧化和保湿特性，以及皮肤屏障保护和胶原蛋白合成活性。因此，可以定义皮肤化妆品中生物活性物质的不同组合，以同时对抗不同皮肤状况背后的不同发病机制。现有文献支持在皮肤化妆品中协同使用植物源生物活性剂，作为管理最常见皮肤状况的一种可行且安全的选择。
