Zeichner Joshua, Bussmann Tanja, Weise Julia M, Maass Elisabeth, Krüger Andrea, Schade Anne-Kathleen, Lain Edward, Mariwalla Kavita, Kirchner Frank, Draelos Zoe D
Dr. Zeichner is with the Department of Dermatology at Mount Sinai Hospital in New York, New York.
Drs. Bussmann and Weise, Ms. Maass, Ms. Krüger, and Ms. Schade are with Research and Development at Beiersdorf AG in Hamburg, Germany.
J Clin Aesthet Dermatol. 2024 Mar;17(3):48-51.
Hyaluronic acid (HA) is a unique molecule of the extracellular matrix with multiple biological activities. In skin, HA plays an essential role as a humectant, capable of binding up to 1,000 times its mass with water, providing skin with moisture and viscoelastic properties. HA concentration and synthesis decrease significantly in aging skin, due to exogenous and endogenous factors, including photoaging and HA metabolism. A key driver for HA degradation and reduced concentration is mediated via induction of reactive oxygen species (ROS) and other free radicals.
In this study, we evaluate antioxidant ingredients essential in the development of next-generation HA-based topical formulations aimed at leveraging HA's ability to maximize anti-aging properties.
Two antioxidants, glycine saponin ( germ extract) and glycyrrhetinic acid (enoxolone), were evaluated for stimulation of endogenous HA production and inhibition of endogenous hyaluronidase activity, respectively.
The antioxidant glycine saponin induced endogenous HA synthesis in fibroblasts, while the antioxidant glycyrrhetinic acid decreased the degradation rate of HA by 54 percent.
While HA has been included in numerous topical skin products, critical aspects of HA metabolism, especially in aging skin, have often been overlooked, including decreases in HA synthesis with increasing age, and increases in HA degradation mediated by exogenously induced reactive oxygen species and free radicals and increased enzymatic degradation by endogenous hyaluronidases. Here, we describe a unique approach to inclusion of two antioxidants essential for the development of the next generation of antioxidant complex-based topical skin formulations to limit the signs of aging skin.
透明质酸（HA）是细胞外基质中一种独特的分子，具有多种生物活性。在皮肤中，HA作为一种保湿剂发挥着重要作用，能够结合高达其质量1000倍的水分，为皮肤提供水分和粘弹性。由于包括光老化和HA代谢在内的外源性和内源性因素，HA浓度和合成在老化皮肤中显著降低。HA降解和浓度降低的一个关键驱动因素是通过活性氧（ROS）和其他自由基的诱导介导的。
在本研究中，我们评估了下一代基于HA的局部用制剂开发中必不可少的抗氧化成分，旨在利用HA的能力最大化抗衰老特性。
分别评估了两种抗氧化剂，即甘草皂苷（芽孢提取物）和甘草次酸（甘草酸）对内源性HA产生的刺激作用和对内源性透明质酸酶活性的抑制作用。
抗氧化剂甘草皂苷诱导成纤维细胞内源性HA合成，而抗氧化剂甘草次酸使HA的降解率降低了54%。
虽然HA已被纳入众多局部皮肤产品中，但HA代谢的关键方面，尤其是在老化皮肤中，常常被忽视，包括随着年龄增长HA合成减少，以及外源性诱导的活性氧和自由基介导的HA降解增加，以及内源性透明质酸酶导致的酶促降解增加。在此，我们描述了一种独特的方法，即将两种抗氧化剂纳入下一代基于抗氧化复合物的局部皮肤制剂的开发中，以减轻老化皮肤的迹象。
