Department of Cosmetology, University of Information Technology and Management in Rzeszów, Sucharskiego 2, 35-225 Rzeszow, Poland.
Chair and Department of Pharmaceutical Botany, Medical College, Jagiellonian University, Medyczna 9, 30-688 Cracow, Poland.
Molecules. 2023 Jun 15;28(12):4791. doi: 10.3390/molecules28124791.
L. is one of the most known medicinal plants with a broad spectrum of applications in the treatment of inflammation, pain, microbial infections and gastrointestinal disorders. In recent years, the extracts from have also been applied in cosmetics with cleansing, moisturizing, shooting, conditioning and skin-lightening properties. The growing demand for naturally derived active substances, worsening environmental pollution and excessive use of natural resources are causing increased interest in the development of alternative methods for the production of plant-based ingredients. In vitro plant cultures are an eco-friendly tool for continuous production of desired plant metabolites, with increasing applicability in cosmetics and dietary supplements. The purpose of the study was to compare phytochemical composition and antioxidant and tyrosinase inhibitory properties of aqueous and hydroethanolic extracts from obtained from field conditions (AmL and AmH extracts) and in vitro cultures (AmIV extracts). In vitro microshoot cultures of were obtained directly from seeds and harvested following 3 weeks of culture. Extracts prepared in water, 50% ethanol and 96% ethanol were compared for the total polyphenolic content, phytochemical content using the ultra-high-performance liquid chromatography-quadrupole time-of-flight mass spectrometry (UHPLC-hr-qTOF/MS), antioxidant activity by DPPH scavenging assay and the influence on the activity of mushroom and murine tyrosinases. The phytochemical content of AmIV extracts was significantly different from AmL and AmH extracts. Most of the polyphenolic compounds identified in AmL and AmH extracts were present in AmIV extracts only in trace amounts and the major constituents presented in AmIV extracts were fatty acids. The total content of polyphenols in AmIV exceeded 0.25 mg GAE/g of dried extract, whereas AmL and AmH extracts contained from 0.46 ± 0.01 to 2.63 ± 0.11 mg GAE/g of dried extract, depending on the solvent used. The low content of polyphenols was most likely responsible for the low antioxidant activity of AmIV extracts (IC values in DPPH scavenging assay >400 µg/mL) and the lack of tyrosinase inhibitory properties. AmIV extracts increased the activity of mushroom tyrosinase and tyrosinase present in B16F10 murine melanoma cells, whereas AmL and AmH extracts showed significant inhibitory potential. The presented data indicated that microshoot cultures of require further experimental research before they can be implemented as a valuable raw material for the cosmetics industry.
L. 是一种应用广泛的药用植物，具有治疗炎症、疼痛、微生物感染和胃肠道疾病的功效。近年来，其提取物也被应用于化妆品领域，具有清洁、保湿、收敛、调理和美白等功效。对天然来源的活性物质的需求不断增加，环境污染日益恶化，自然资源过度使用，这些因素都促使人们对植物成分的替代生产方法产生了浓厚的兴趣。体外植物培养是一种环保工具，可连续生产所需的植物代谢物，在化妆品和膳食补充剂领域的适用性不断提高。本研究的目的是比较从田间条件（AmL 和 AmH 提取物）和体外培养（AmIV 提取物）获得的 的水提物和水醇提物的植物化学成分、抗氧化和酪氨酸酶抑制特性。通过直接从种子获得的 的体外微芽培养物，并在培养 3 周后收获。用水、50%乙醇和 96%乙醇制备的提取物进行总多酚含量、使用超高效液相色谱-四极杆飞行时间质谱（UHPLC-hr-qTOF/MS）进行植物化学成分分析、DPPH 清除试验评估抗氧化活性以及对蘑菇和鼠源酪氨酸酶活性的影响。AmIV 提取物的植物化学成分与 AmL 和 AmH 提取物有显著差异。在 AmL 和 AmH 提取物中鉴定的大多数多酚化合物仅在痕量存在于 AmIV 提取物中，而 AmIV 提取物中的主要成分是脂肪酸。AmIV 提取物的总多酚含量超过 0.25 毫克 GAE/g 干提取物，而 AmL 和 AmH 提取物的干提取物中含有 0.46±0.01 至 2.63±0.11 毫克 GAE/g，具体取决于所用溶剂。多酚含量低很可能导致 AmIV 提取物的抗氧化活性低（DPPH 清除试验中的 IC 值>400 µg/mL），并且缺乏酪氨酸酶抑制特性。AmIV 提取物增加了蘑菇酪氨酸酶和 B16F10 鼠黑色素瘤细胞中存在的酪氨酸酶的活性，而 AmL 和 AmH 提取物则表现出显著的抑制潜力。所提供的数据表明， 的微芽培养物需要进一步的实验研究，然后才能作为化妆品行业有价值的原料。
