Grupo de Bioquímica de Alimentos, Instituto de Investigaciones Marinas, Consejo Superior de Investigaciones Científicas, Eduardo Cabello, 6, 36208 Vigo, Spain.
Group of Recycling and Valorisation of Waste Materials (REVAL), Instituto de Investigaciones Marinas, Consejo Superior de Investigaciones Científicas, Eduardo Cabello, 6, 36208 Vigo, Spain.
Int J Mol Sci. 2023 Oct 19;24(20):15380. doi: 10.3390/ijms242015380.
Hydrolyzed collagen, glycogen, and hyaluronic acid, obtained through the biotechnological valorization of underutilized marine bioresources, fulfill cosmetic industry requirements for sustainable products produced under circular economy principles. Hydrolyzed collagen was obtained by hydrolyzing blue shark collagen with papain and ultrafiltration. Glycogen was isolated from industrial mussel cooking wastewaters through ultrafiltration, precipitation, and selective polysaccharide separation. Hyaluronic acid was produced by fermentation, purification, and depolymerization. The main objective was to test the feasibility of including these three biomolecules in a cosmetic formulation as bioactive compounds. For this, the in vitro irritant potential of the three ingredients and also that of the cosmetic formulation was assayed according to the Reconstituted Human Epithelium Test method OECD 439. Moreover, an in vitro assessment of the effect of hydrolyzed collagen and hyaluronic acid combinations on mRNA expression and collagen type I synthesis was evaluated in adult human fibroblasts. This study establishes, for the first time, the potential use of particular hydrolyzed collagen and hyaluronic acid combinations as stimulators of collagen I synthesis in fibroblast cultures. Besides, it provide safety information regarding potential use of those biomolecules in the formulation of a cosmetic preparation positively concluding that both, ingredients and cosmetic preparation, resulted not irritant for skin following an international validated reference method.
通过对未充分利用的海洋生物资源进行生物技术增值，获得的水解胶原蛋白、糖原和透明质酸，满足了化妆品行业对基于循环经济原则生产的可持续产品的要求。水解胶原蛋白是通过木瓜蛋白酶和超滤水解蓝鲨胶原蛋白获得的。糖原是通过超滤、沉淀和选择性多糖分离从工业贻贝烹饪废水中分离出来的。透明质酸是通过发酵、纯化和解聚生产的。主要目的是测试将这三种生物分子作为生物活性化合物包含在化妆品配方中的可行性。为此，根据 OECD 439 重组人上皮试验方法，对三种成分以及化妆品配方的体外刺激性潜力进行了测试。此外，还评估了水解胶原蛋白和透明质酸组合对成年人类成纤维细胞中 mRNA 表达和 I 型胶原蛋白合成的体外影响。本研究首次建立了特定水解胶原蛋白和透明质酸组合作为成纤维细胞培养中 I 型胶原蛋白合成刺激物的潜在用途。此外，它还提供了关于这些生物分子在化妆品制剂配方中使用的安全性信息，该制剂通过国际验证的参考方法得出结论，对皮肤无刺激性。
