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药妆品的当前方法:肽、生物制剂和海洋生物聚合物。

Current Approaches in Cosmeceuticals: Peptides, Biotics and Marine Biopolymers.

作者信息

Badilli Ulya, Inal Ozge

机构信息

Department of Pharmaceutical Technology, Faculty of Pharmacy, Ankara University, 06560 Ankara, Turkey.

出版信息

Polymers (Basel). 2025 Mar 18;17(6):798. doi: 10.3390/polym17060798.

Abstract

Today's consumer perception and expectations of personal care have gone beyond merely cleansing, moisturizing, and makeup products, focusing more on the reduction or elimination of signs of aging. Cosmeceuticals, developed to create a more youthful appearance, commonly contain substances with therapeutic and physiological effects. The development of cosmeceutical products containing peptides, biotic ingredients, and marine-based compounds has become a highly popular strategy to enhance anti-aging effects and better address consumer demands. Peptides are frequently used in anti-aging products due to their effects on enhancing fibroblast proliferation and collagen synthesis, contributing to the skin's barrier function, and reducing skin pigmentation. Meanwhile, biotic components are extensively evaluated for their potential to improve barrier function by maintaining the balance of the skin microflora. On the other hand, the increasing interest of cosmetic consumers in natural and eco-friendly products, along with the rich biodiversity in the oceans and seas, has made marine-derived substances highly significant for the cosmetic industry. Marine polysaccharides are particularly valuable as biopolymers, offering useful properties for gel formation in cosmetic formulations. This review discusses scientific studies and commercially available products using peptides, biotic and marine-based compounds in cosmetic formulations, their cosmetic and cosmeceutical benefits, and the challenges in the formulation design of these products.

摘要

如今,消费者对个人护理产品的认知和期望已不仅仅局限于清洁、保湿和彩妆产品,更多地关注减少或消除衰老迹象。为打造更年轻外观而研发的药妆品通常含有具有治疗和生理作用的物质。含有肽、生物成分和海洋基化合物的药妆产品的开发已成为增强抗衰效果和更好满足消费者需求的热门策略。肽因其对增强成纤维细胞增殖和胶原蛋白合成、促进皮肤屏障功能以及减少皮肤色素沉着的作用,常用于抗衰产品中。同时,生物成分因其通过维持皮肤微生物群平衡来改善屏障功能的潜力而受到广泛评估。另一方面,化妆品消费者对天然和环保产品的兴趣日益增加,以及海洋丰富的生物多样性,使得海洋来源的物质对化妆品行业具有重要意义。海洋多糖作为生物聚合物特别有价值,在化妆品配方中形成凝胶具有有用的特性。本综述讨论了在化妆品配方中使用肽、生物和海洋基化合物的科学研究及市售产品、它们的美容和药妆功效以及这些产品配方设计中的挑战。

https://cdn.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/blobs/422f/11946782/13de92d60fd2/polymers-17-00798-g001.jpg

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