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通过抗氧化和抑制胶原酶,J. Koenig芳香提取物在抗皱方面的应用前景

Promising Anti-Wrinkle Applications of Aromatic Extracts of J. Koenig via Antioxidation and Collagenase Inhibition.

作者信息

Tammasorn Pattiya, Charoensup Wannaree, Bunrod Anurak, Kanjanakawinkul Watchara, Chaiyana Wantida

机构信息

Department of Pharmaceutical Sciences, Faculty of Pharmacy, Chiang Mai University, Chiang Mai 50200, Thailand.

Chulabhorn Royal Pharmaceutical Manufacturing Facilities by Chulabhorn Royal Academy, Chon Buri 20180, Thailand.

出版信息

Pharmaceuticals (Basel). 2023 Dec 17;16(12):1738. doi: 10.3390/ph16121738.

Abstract

This study aimed to extract aromatic compounds from the rhizomes, leaf sheaths, and leaves of and investigate their chemical compositions, cosmetic/cosmeceutical activities, and irritation potency. The chemical compositions were investigated via gas chromatography-mass spectrometry. The antioxidant activities were evaluated via spectrophotometry. The anti-skin wrinkle properties were investigated via collagenase, elastase, and hyaluronidase inhibition. The irritation potency was observed via a hen's egg-chorioallantoic membrane test. Eucalyptol was detected as a major component in the rhizomes and leaf sheaths, while β-caryophyllene was predominant in the leaves. The absolutes from the rhizomes were the strongest antioxidants, with ABTS scavenging properties similar to -ascorbic acid. Interestingly, the equivalent concentration (EC) of the absolute from the rhizome was 0.82 ± 0.01 µg FeSO/g extract, which was significantly more potent than -ascorbic acid (0.43 ± 0.03 µg FeSO/g extract). The rhizome-derived absolute was the most effective against collagenase, while the concretes from the rhizomes and leaf sheaths showed promising anti-hyaluronidase activity with inhibitions of 90.5 ± 1.6% and 87.4 ± 5.1%, respectively. The irritability of the aromatic extracts was not different from that of the vehicle control, proving their safety. Therefore, the rhizome-derived absolute was an attractive and potent antioxidant with anti-collagenase activities, indicating its potential for use in anti-aging formulations.

摘要

本研究旨在从[植物名称]的根茎、叶鞘和叶片中提取芳香化合物,并研究其化学成分、化妆品/药妆活性及刺激潜力。通过气相色谱-质谱联用仪研究化学成分。通过分光光度法评估抗氧化活性。通过抑制胶原酶、弹性蛋白酶和透明质酸酶来研究抗皮肤皱纹特性。通过鸡胚绒毛尿囊膜试验观察刺激潜力。桉叶油醇被检测为根茎和叶鞘中的主要成分,而β-石竹烯在叶片中占主导地位。根茎提取的净油是最强的抗氧化剂,其ABTS清除特性与L-抗坏血酸相似。有趣的是,根茎提取净油的等效浓度(EC)为0.82±0.01μg FeSO₄/g提取物,明显比L-抗坏血酸(0.43±0.03μg FeSO₄/g提取物)更强效。根茎衍生的净油对胶原酶最有效,而根茎和叶鞘提取的浸膏显示出有前景的抗透明质酸酶活性,抑制率分别为90.5±1.6%和87.4±5.1%。芳香提取物的刺激性与赋形剂对照无异,证明了其安全性。因此,根茎衍生的净油是一种有吸引力且强效的具有抗胶原酶活性的抗氧化剂,表明其在抗衰老配方中的应用潜力。

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