Department of Pharmaceutical Sciences, Faculty of Pharmacy, Chiang Mai University, Chiang Mai, Thailand.
Research Center of Pharmaceutical Nanotechnology, Faculty of Pharmacy, Chiang Mai University, Chiang Mai, Thailand.
Int J Nanomedicine. 2023 Jun 3;18:2955-2972. doi: 10.2147/IJN.S406864. eCollection 2023.
This study aimed to extract the oil from de Geer, evaluate its potential for cosmeceutical applications, and develop nanoemulsions to promote the cosmeceutical capabilities of the oil.
oil was produced by the cold pressing method. Its fatty acid compositions were assessed by fatty acid methyl ester/gas chromatographic-mass spectrometry. The antioxidant activities of the oil were investigated in terms of radical scavengers, reducing power, and lipid peroxidation inhibition. The whitening effects were investigated through anti-tyrosinase activities, whilst the anti-aging effects were investigated through inhibition against collagenase, elastase, and hyaluronidase. The irritant effects were investigated by the hen's egg chorio-allantoic membrane test and the cytotoxicity assay in immortalized human epidermal keratinocytes and human foreskin fibroblast cells. The nanoemulsions were developed, characterized, and evaluated for their stability and cosmeceutical properties.
oil, rich in linoleic acid (31.08 ± 0.00%), oleic acid (30.44 ± 0.01%), palmitic acid (24.80 ± 0.01%), and stearic acid (7.61 ± 0.00%), demonstrated promising cosmeceutical properties in terms of antioxidant, anti-tyrosinase, and anti-skin ageing activities. Besides, the oil was safe since it induced no irritation or cytotoxicity. oil was successfully developed into nanoemulsions, and F1, composed of 1% w/w oil, 1.12% w/w polysorbate 80, 0.88% w/w sorbitan oleate, and 97% w/w DI water, had the smallest internal droplet size (53.8 ± 0.6 nm), the narrowest polydispersity index (0.129 ± 0.010), and a pronounced zeta potential (-28.23 ± 2.32 mV). All cosmeceutical activities of the oil were significantly enhanced after incorporation in the nanoemulsions (p < 0.001), particularly the whitening effects.
oil nanoemulsion was an attractive cosmeceutical formulation with potent whitening effects, along with antioxidant and anti-aging properties. Therefore, nanoemulsion technology was found to be an effective strategy for improving the cosmeceutical properties of oil.
本研究旨在从 de Geer 中提取油，评估其在化妆品应用方面的潜力，并开发纳米乳液以提高油的化妆品功效。
采用冷榨法提取油，通过脂肪酸甲酯/气相色谱-质谱法评估其脂肪酸组成。通过自由基清除剂、还原力和脂质过氧化抑制作用评估油的抗氧化活性。通过抑制酪氨酸酶活性研究其美白效果，通过抑制胶原蛋白酶、弹性蛋白酶和透明质酸酶研究其抗老化效果。通过鸡胚绒毛尿囊膜试验和永生化人表皮角质形成细胞及人包皮成纤维细胞的细胞毒性试验研究其刺激性。开发、表征纳米乳液，并评估其稳定性和化妆品性能。
富含亚油酸（31.08 ± 0.00%）、油酸（30.44 ± 0.01%）、棕榈酸（24.80 ± 0.01%）和硬脂酸（7.61 ± 0.00%）的油在抗氧化、抑制酪氨酸酶和抗皮肤老化活性方面表现出良好的化妆品功效。此外，由于该油无刺激性和细胞毒性，因此是安全的。成功地将 油制成纳米乳液，F1 由 1%w/w 油、1.12%w/w 聚山梨醇酯 80、0.88%w/w 油酸山梨坦和 97%w/w DI 水组成，具有最小的内部分散粒径（53.8 ± 0.6nm）、最窄的多分散指数（0.129 ± 0.010）和显著的 Zeta 电位（-28.23 ± 2.32mV）。油的所有化妆品功效在纳米乳液中的功效均显著增强（p < 0.001），特别是美白效果。
油纳米乳液是一种有吸引力的化妆品制剂，具有强大的美白效果，以及抗氧化和抗衰老性能。因此，纳米乳液技术被发现是提高 油化妆品功效的有效策略。
