Kim Seo Hyeong, Kim Ji Hye, Choi Yoon Mi, Seo Su Min, Jang Eun Young, Lee Sung Jae, Cho Suhyun, Jeong Do Hyeon, Lee Kwang Hoon
Cutis Biomedical Research Center Co. Ltd., Seoul, Republic of Korea.
Yonsei BB Skin Clinic, Seoul, Republic of Korea.
Skin Res Technol. 2024 Mar;30(3):e13647. doi: 10.1111/srt.13647.
Current methods for evaluating efficacy of cosmetics have limitations because they cannot accurately measure changes in the dermis. Skin sampling using microneedles allows identification of skin-type biomarkers, monitoring treatment for skin inflammatory diseases, and evaluating efficacy of anti-aging and anti-pigmentation products.
Two studies were conducted: First, 20 participants received anti-aging treatment; second, 20 participants received anti-pigmentation treatment. Non-invasive devices measured skin aging (using high-resolution 3D-imaging in the anti-aging study) or pigmentation (using spectrophotometry in the anti-pigmentation study) at weeks 0 and 4, and adverse skin reactions were monitored. Skin samples were collected with biocompatible microneedle patches. Changes in expression of biomarkers for skin aging and pigmentation were analyzed using qRT-PCR.
No adverse events were reported. In the anti-aging study, after 4 weeks, skin roughness significantly improved in 17 out of 20 participants. qRT-PCR showed significantly increased expression of skin-aging related biomarkers: PINK1 in 16/20 participants, COL1A1 in 17/20 participants, and MSN in 16/20 participants. In the anti-pigmentation study, after 4 weeks, skin lightness significantly improved in 16/20 participants. qRT-PCR showed significantly increased expression of skin-pigmentation-related biomarkers: SOD1 in 15/20 participants and Vitamin D Receptor (VDR) in 15/20 participants. No significant change in TFAP2A was observed.
Skin sampling and mRNA analysis for biomarkers provides a novel, objective, quantitative method for measuring changes in the dermis and evaluating the efficacy of cosmetics. This approach complements existing evaluation methods and has potential application in assessing the effectiveness of medical devices, medications, cosmeceuticals, healthy foods, and beauty devices.
目前评估化妆品功效的方法存在局限性,因为它们无法准确测量真皮层的变化。使用微针进行皮肤采样能够识别皮肤类型生物标志物、监测皮肤炎症性疾病的治疗情况以及评估抗衰老和抗色素沉着产品的功效。
进行了两项研究:第一项,20名参与者接受抗衰老治疗;第二项,20名参与者接受抗色素沉着治疗。在第0周和第4周,使用非侵入性设备测量皮肤衰老情况(在抗衰老研究中使用高分辨率3D成像)或色素沉着情况(在抗色素沉着研究中使用分光光度法),并监测皮肤不良反应。使用生物相容性微针贴片收集皮肤样本。使用qRT-PCR分析皮肤衰老和色素沉着生物标志物表达的变化。
未报告不良事件。在抗衰老研究中,4周后,20名参与者中有17名的皮肤粗糙度显著改善。qRT-PCR显示皮肤衰老相关生物标志物的表达显著增加:16/20的参与者中PINK1增加,17/20的参与者中COL1A1增加,16/20的参与者中MSN增加。在抗色素沉着研究中,4周后,16/20的参与者皮肤亮度显著改善。qRT-PCR显示皮肤色素沉着相关生物标志物的表达显著增加:15/20的参与者中SOD1增加,15/20的参与者中维生素D受体(VDR)增加。未观察到TFAP2A有显著变化。
对生物标志物进行皮肤采样和mRNA分析为测量真皮层变化和评估化妆品功效提供了一种新颖、客观、定量的方法。这种方法补充了现有的评估方法,在评估医疗器械、药物、药妆品、健康食品和美容设备的有效性方面具有潜在应用价值。