Biochemistry Discipline, Biochemistry and Pharmacology Department, Victor Babes University of Medicine and Pharmacy Timisoara, Eftimie Murgu Sq. No.2, 300041 Timisoara, Romania.
Physiology Discipline, Functional Sciences Department, Victor Babes University of Medicine and Pharmacy Timisoara, Eftimie Murgu Sq. No.2, 300041 Timisoara, Romania.
Molecules. 2024 Mar 17;29(6):1336. doi: 10.3390/molecules29061336.
Cosmetic products are chemical substances or mixtures used on the skin, hair, nails, teeth, and the mucous membranes of the oral cavity, whose use is intended to clean, protect, correct body odor, perfume, keep in good condition, or change appearance. The analysis of cosmetic ingredients is often challenging because of their huge complexity and their adulteration. Among various analytical tools, mass spectrometry (MS) has been largely used for compound detection, ingredient screening, quality control, detection of product authenticity, and health risk evaluation. This work is focused on the MS applications in detecting and quantification of some common cosmetic ingredients, i.e., preservatives, dyes, heavy metals, allergens, and bioconjugates in various matrices (leave-on or rinse-off cosmetic products). As a global view, MS-based analysis of bioconjugates is a narrow field, and LC- and GC/GC×GC-MS are widely used for the investigation of preservatives, dyes, and fragrances, while inductively coupled plasma (ICP)-MS is ideal for comprehensive analysis of heavy metals. Ambient ionization approaches and advanced separation methods (i.e., convergence chromatography (UPC)) coupled to MS have been proven to be an excellent choice for the analysis of scented allergens. At the same time, the current paper explores the challenges of MS-based analysis for cosmetic safety studies.
化妆品是指涂敷于皮肤、毛发、指甲、牙齿和口腔黏膜的,以清洁、保护、美化、修饰和改变外观或纠正人体气味为目的的化学物质或混合物。由于其组成的复杂性和掺假现象,分析化妆品成分往往具有挑战性。在各种分析工具中,质谱(MS)已广泛用于化合物检测、成分筛选、质量控制、产品真实性检测和健康风险评估。本工作重点介绍了 MS 在检测和定量分析各种基质(留用或冲洗型化妆品)中的一些常见化妆品成分(如防腐剂、染料、重金属、过敏原和生物缀合物)中的应用。从全球范围来看,基于 MS 的生物缀合物分析是一个较窄的领域,LC 和 GC/GC×GC-MS 广泛用于防腐剂、染料和香料的研究,而电感耦合等离子体(ICP)-MS 则是重金属综合分析的理想选择。已证明环境电离方法和先进的分离方法(如汇聚色谱(UPC))与 MS 相结合是分析有香味的过敏原的绝佳选择。同时,本文还探讨了基于 MS 的化妆品安全性研究分析的挑战。