Unveiling the potential of Pseudococcomyxa simplex: a stepwise extraction for cosmetic applications.

Microalgae are gaining attention as they are considered green fabrics able to synthesize many bioactive metabolites, with unique biological activities. However, their use at an industrial scale is still a challenge because of the high costs related to upstream and downstream processes. Here, a biorefinery approach was proposed, starting from the biomass of the green microalga Pseudococcomyxa simplex for the extraction of two classes of molecules with a potential use in the cosmetic industry. Carotenoids were extracted first by an ultrasound-assisted extraction, and then, from the residual biomass, lipids were obtained by a conventional extraction. The chemical characterization of the ethanol extract indicated lutein, a biosynthetic derivative of α-carotene, as the most abundant carotenoid. The extract was found to be fully biocompatible on a cell-based model, active as antioxidant and with an in vitro anti-aging property. In particular, the lutein-enriched fraction was able to activate Nrf2 pathway, which plays a key role also in aging process. Finally, lipids were isolated from the residual biomass and the isolated fatty acids fraction was composed by palmitic and stearic acids. These molecules, fully biocompatible, can find application as emulsifiers and softener agents in cosmetic formulations. Thus, an untapped microalgal species can represent a sustainable source for cosmeceutical formulations. KEY POINTS: • Pseudococcomyxa simplex has been explored in a cascade approach. • Lutein is the main extracted carotenoid and has antioxidant and anti-aging activity. • Fatty acids are mainly composed of palmitic and stearic acids.