Szabo Drew, Fischer Stellan, Mathew Aji P, Kruve Anneli
Department of Materials and Environmental Chemistry, Stockholm University, SE-106 91 Stockholm, Sweden.
Swedish Chemicals Agency, SE-17267 Stockholm, Sweden.
Anal Chem. 2024 Sep 3;96(35):14150-14159. doi: 10.1021/acs.analchem.4c02041. Epub 2024 Aug 19.
Recycled textiles are becoming widely available to consumers as manufacturers adopt circular economy principles to reduce the negative impact of garment production. Still, the quality of the source material directly impacts the final product, where the presence of harmful chemicals is of utmost concern. Here, we develop a risk-based suspect and non-targeted screening workflow for the detection, identification, and prioritization of the chemicals present in consumer-based recycled textile products after manufacture and transport. We apply the workflow to characterize 13 recycled textile products from major retail outlets in Sweden. Samples were extracted and analyzed by liquid chromatography coupled with high-resolution mass spectrometry (LC-HRMS). In positive and negative ionization mode, 20,119 LC-HRMS features were detected and screened against persistent, mobile, and toxic (PMT) as well as other textile-related chemicals. Six substances were matched with PMT substances that are regulated in the European Union (EU) with a Level 2/3 confidence. Forty-three substances were confidently matched with textile-related chemicals reported for use in Sweden. For estimating the relative priority score, aquatic toxicity and concentrations were predicted for 7416 features with tandem mass spectra (MS) and used to rank the non-targeted features. The top 10 substances were evaluated due to elevated environmental risk linked to the recycling process and potential release at end-of-life.
随着制造商采用循环经济原则以减少服装生产的负面影响,再生纺织品正越来越广泛地提供给消费者。尽管如此,原材料的质量直接影响最终产品,其中有害化学物质的存在是最为令人担忧的。在此,我们开发了一种基于风险的可疑和非靶向筛查工作流程,用于检测、识别和优先排序消费型再生纺织产品在制造和运输后所含的化学物质。我们应用该工作流程对瑞典主要零售网点的13种再生纺织产品进行了表征。样品通过液相色谱与高分辨率质谱联用(LC-HRMS)进行提取和分析。在正离子和负离子电离模式下,检测到20119个LC-HRMS特征峰,并针对持久性、移动性和毒性(PMT)以及其他与纺织品相关的化学物质进行了筛查。六种物质与欧盟(EU)监管的PMT物质以2/3级置信度匹配。43种物质与瑞典报告使用的与纺织品相关的化学物质可靠匹配。为了估计相对优先级分数,利用串联质谱(MS)对7416个特征峰的水生毒性和浓度进行了预测,并用于对非靶向特征峰进行排名。由于与回收过程相关的环境风险升高以及在产品寿命结束时可能释放,对排名前10的物质进行了评估。