Daroueche Oumaynou, Dimassi Abassi, Bertrand Cédric, Chassagne François
UAR 3278 CRIOBE, EPHE-UPVD-CNRS, Université de Perpignan, 52 Avenue Paul Alduy, 66860 Cedex, Perpignan, France.
Pôle d'Excellence Rurale, Pôle PI2M, RN 2, 97670, Coconi, Mayotte.
Heliyon. 2024 Jul 31;10(15):e35322. doi: 10.1016/j.heliyon.2024.e35322. eCollection 2024 Aug 15.
Mayotte is located in the Indian Ocean and is home to more than five languages, cultures and lifestyles. However, due to rapid urbanization, this traditional knowledge is at risk of extinction. Moreover, ethnobotanical studies on the pharmacopoeia and cosmetopoeia in Mayotte are almost nonexistent. This study was carried out to document the traditional knowledge of Mayotte's cosmetopoeia. The main objective of this study was to document the diversity of cosmetic plants used by the Mahoran community. We conducted field surveys from 2021 to 2022 in 14 communes of "Grande Terre", the largest of the two islands from Mayotte. A total of 35 experts () were interviewed in this study. Individual interviews with Mahoran informants using open questions were conducted, and voucher specimens were collected for each plant species cited. A total of 470 cosmetic formulations, representing a total of 1777 URs, were recorded. Each formulation contains 1 to 13 ingredients, with a predominance of single-ingredient recipes. In particular, hygiene, makeup, fragrance, hair and nails, and dermatology are the most cited cosmetic categories. A total of 83 plant species were identified and the five most cited plant species were, in decreasing order: (273 URs), (191 URs), spp. (120 URs), (105 URs), and (101 URs). This study is one of the first to focus solely on the exploration of cosmetopoeia in Mayotte, contributing to the preservation of knowledge and the promotion of customs related to traditional cosmetics on this island. Further studies should be performed on some highly cited plant species endemic to the area (e.g., , ) to confirm their interest for the cosmetic industry and thus contribute to the economic growth of Mahoran people.
马约特岛位于印度洋，拥有五种以上的语言、文化和生活方式。然而，由于快速城市化，这种传统知识面临灭绝风险。此外，关于马约特岛药典和化妆品药典的民族植物学研究几乎不存在。本研究旨在记录马约特岛化妆品药典的传统知识。本研究的主要目的是记录马霍雷社区使用的化妆品植物的多样性。我们在2021年至2022年期间对马约特岛两个岛屿中最大的“大特岛”的14个公社进行了实地调查。本研究共采访了35位专家（）。对马霍雷受访者进行了开放式问题的个人访谈，并为每种引用的植物物种收集了凭证标本。共记录了470种化妆品配方，总计1777个使用单位。每个配方包含1至13种成分，以单成分配方为主。特别是，卫生、化妆、香水、头发和指甲以及皮肤病学是被引用最多的化妆品类别。共鉴定出83种植物物种，引用最多的五种植物物种按降序排列为：（273个使用单位）、（191个使用单位）、 spp.（120个使用单位）、（105个使用单位）和（101个使用单位）。本研究是首批仅专注于探索马约特岛化妆品药典的研究之一，有助于保护该岛与传统化妆品相关的知识并推广相关习俗。应进一步研究该地区特有的一些被高度引用的植物物种（例如，），以确认它们对化妆品行业的价值，从而为马霍雷人民的经济增长做出贡献。
