College of Food Science and Engineering, Inner Mongolia Agricultural University, Hohhot, Inner Mongolia 010018, China.
College of Food Science and Engineering, Inner Mongolia Agricultural University, Hohhot, Inner Mongolia 010018, China.
Colloids Surf B Biointerfaces. 2024 Dec;244:114170. doi: 10.1016/j.colsurfb.2024.114170. Epub 2024 Aug 22.
Skin aging involves complex biochemical reactions and has attracted a growing concern recently. For it, there is a great desire to replace the hazardous and easy-recurring "therapy means" with "daily care" based on some natural and healthy ingredients. According to a novel theory called "homology of cosmetic and food", the safety, efficacy and accessibility of food-derived skin-care ingredients offer an attractive option for combating skin aging, which will be an inevitable trend of dermatology in the future. Ultraviolet (UV) radiation is a major trigger of skin aging. It acts on the skin and generates reactive oxygen species, which causing oxidative stress. More, matrix metalloproteinase and melanin levels are also upregulated by the UV-activated mitogen-activated protein kinase (MAPK) pathway and tyrosinase, respectively, resulting in collagen degradation and melanin deposition in the extracellular matrix. Through the existing studies, the relevant key biomarkers and biochemical pathways can be effectively controlled by skin-care ingredients from animal-derived and plant-derived foods as well as traditional herbs, thus preserving human skin from UV-induced aging in terms of antioxidant, collagen protection and melanin inhibition. To extend their application potential, some carriers represented by nanoliposomes can facilitate the transdermal absorption of food-derived skin-care ingredients by the variation of molecular weight and lipid solubility. The present review will provide an overview of the trigger mechanisms of skin aging, and focus on the molecular biology aspects of food-derived skin-care ingredients in skin matrix and the critical summarize of their research state.
皮肤老化涉及复杂的生化反应，最近引起了越来越多的关注。因此，人们非常希望用基于天然和健康成分的“日常护理”来替代危险且容易复发的“治疗手段”。根据一种称为“化妆品和食品同源性”的新理论，源自食品的皮肤护理成分的安全性、功效和可及性为对抗皮肤老化提供了一个有吸引力的选择，这将是未来皮肤科的一个必然趋势。紫外线 (UV) 辐射是皮肤老化的主要诱因。它作用于皮肤并产生活性氧物种，导致氧化应激。此外，基质金属蛋白酶和黑色素水平也分别被 UV 激活的丝裂原活化蛋白激酶 (MAPK) 途径和酪氨酸酶上调，导致胶原蛋白降解和黑色素在细胞外基质中沉积。通过现有研究，可以通过动物源性和植物源性食物以及传统草药中的皮肤护理成分有效控制相关关键生物标志物和生化途径，从而在抗氧化、胶原蛋白保护和黑色素抑制方面保护人体皮肤免受 UV 诱导的衰老。为了扩展它们的应用潜力，一些以纳米脂质体为代表的载体可以通过分子量和脂溶性的变化促进源自食物的皮肤护理成分的经皮吸收。本综述将概述皮肤老化的触发机制，并重点介绍源自食物的皮肤护理成分在皮肤基质中的分子生物学方面及其研究状态的关键总结。
