Faculty of Medical Bioengineering, "Grigore T. Popa" University of Medicine and Pharmacy, Mihail Kogalniceanu Street No. 11-13, 700454 Iasi, Romania.
Faculty of Pharmacy, "Grigore T. Popa" University of Medicine and Pharmacy, Universitatii Street No. 16, 700115 Iasi, Romania.
Int J Mol Sci. 2024 Aug 15;25(16):8886. doi: 10.3390/ijms25168886.
The development of products with skin-protective effects has been driven by the increasing incidence of skin diseases that are exacerbated by increasing pollution, urbanization, poor living, working, fatigue, dietary habits, and general treatment. The ability of antioxidants to protect the skin from oxidative stress and its effects makes them one of the most important ingredients in today's cosmetics. This article aims first to characterize the plant extracts obtained from () and then to evaluate the preliminary criteria for a new marketed product: the stability, antioxidant activity, and in vitro behavior of certain serums based on plant extract and hyaluronic acid. The extracts were obtained by liquid-solid extraction methods (maceration (M), ultrasound-assisted extraction (UEA), and a combined method between these two (UEA + M) using an aqueous solution of ethyl alcohol as the extraction solvent. The determination of the amounts of compounds with antioxidant activity highlighted the fact that the extract obtained from the whole plant of using maceration in conditions of S/L = 1:30, 20 days, and an extraction solvent percentage of 50% led to obtaining the highest amount of polyphenols (30.42 μg GAE/g), while using the combined UAE + M method under conditions of S/L = 1:30, 6 min + 20 days, and 50% extraction solvent led to obtaining the highest amount of flavonoids (32.88 mg QE/g). The tests performed on dermato-cosmetic serums based on the plant extract and multimolecular hyaluronic acid (HA) (1 HA with HMW-1.0 mDa-1.6 mDa; HA with LMW-10 kDa-200 kDa; and HA OLIGO, MW < 10 kDa) led to the conclusion that they exhibit structural stability, good shear behavior revealing a satisfactory texture, and high physical stability during storage. These results encourage the transition to in-depth testing, both microbiological and dermatological, as a final step in the consideration of a new commercial product.
皮肤疾病的发病率不断上升，而污染、城市化、不良的生活、工作、疲劳、饮食习惯和一般治疗等因素又加剧了这种情况。抗氧化剂能够保护皮肤免受氧化应激及其影响，这使得它们成为当今化妆品中最重要的成分之一。本文的目的首先是对从 () 中获得的植物提取物进行表征，然后评估新产品的初步标准：基于 植物提取物和透明质酸的某些血清的稳定性、抗氧化活性和体外行为。提取物是通过液-固萃取方法（浸渍（M）、超声辅助萃取（UEA）和这两种方法的组合（UEA + M））用乙醇水溶液作为萃取溶剂获得的。抗氧化活性化合物含量的测定表明，在 S/L = 1:30、20 天和萃取溶剂百分比为 50%的条件下，使用浸渍法从 全株植物中提取的提取物导致获得最高量的多酚（30.42 μg GAE/g），而在 S/L = 1:30、6 分钟+20 天和 50%萃取溶剂的条件下使用组合的 UAE + M 方法获得的黄酮类化合物（32.88 mg QE/g）的量最高。对基于植物提取物和多分子透明质酸（HA）（1 HA 具有 HMW-1.0 mDa-1.6 mDa；HA 具有 LMW-10 kDa-200 kDa；和 HA OLIGO，MW < 10 kDa）的皮肤化妆品血清进行的测试得出的结论是，它们表现出结构稳定性，良好的剪切行为，显示出令人满意的质地，并且在储存过程中具有高物理稳定性。这些结果鼓励进行深入的测试，包括微生物学和皮肤病学测试，作为考虑新产品的最后一步。
