Kwong Wai-Hang, Li Jia-Qi, Lui Chun-Hung, Luk Hiu-Tung, Lau King-Fung, Seaby Ray, Sidarta Ananda
Department of Rehabilitation Sciences, The Hong Kong Polytechnic University, Hong Kong, China.
Shenzhen Institutes of Advanced Technology, Chinese Academy of Sciences, Shenzhen 518000, China.
J Funct Morphol Kinesiol. 2024 Sep 10;9(3):161. doi: 10.3390/jfmk9030161.
The ability to hang for a long time before forearm muscle fatigue is a crucial element of successful rock climbing. Electromyography (EMG) and near-infrared spectroscopy (NIRS) are also useful for measuring hemoglobin oxygenation for determining muscle endurance. In the present study, we aimed to evaluate the reliability and validity of muscle endurance indices derived using EMG and NIRS during a hanging task. : A bilateral hanging task was designed to compare rock climbers and non-climbers in terms of the slopes of changes in the median frequency (MDF) and tissue oxygenation index (TOI) of forearm muscles. : A total of 17 participants were included in each of the two groups. The intraclass correlation coefficient (3,1) values derived for the MDF slope, TOI slope, ΔTOI, percentage change in oxygen concentration, and ΔHbt were 0.85, 0.73, 0.65, 0.75, and 0.65, respectively. The MDF slope, TOI slope, and ΔHbt differed significantly between the groups ( < 0.05). The MDF slope, TOI slopes, and ΔHbt were significantly correlated with V-scale levels for climbing ( < 0.05). The satisfactory reliability and observed distinctions between climbers and non-climbers imply that these indices are a valuable tool for assessing muscle endurance.
在小臂肌肉疲劳前长时间悬挂的能力是攀岩成功的关键要素。肌电图(EMG)和近红外光谱(NIRS)对于测量血红蛋白氧合以确定肌肉耐力也很有用。在本研究中,我们旨在评估在悬挂任务期间使用EMG和NIRS得出的肌肉耐力指标的可靠性和有效性。设计了一项双侧悬挂任务,以比较攀岩者和非攀岩者在前臂肌肉中位频率(MDF)和组织氧合指数(TOI)变化斜率方面的差异。两组各纳入17名参与者。MDF斜率、TOI斜率、ΔTOI、氧浓度百分比变化和ΔHbt的组内相关系数(3,1)值分别为0.85、0.73、0.65、0.75和0.65。两组之间的MDF斜率、TOI斜率和ΔHbt存在显著差异(<0.05)。MDF斜率、TOI斜率和ΔHbt与攀岩的V级水平显著相关(<0.05)。令人满意的可靠性以及攀岩者与非攀岩者之间观察到的差异表明,这些指标是评估肌肉耐力的有价值工具。