Fryer S, Stone K J, Sveen J, Dickson T, España-Romero V, Giles D, Baláš J, Stoner L, Draper N
a School of Sport and Exercise, Faculty of Applied Sciences , University of Gloucestershire , Gloucester , UK.
b School of Life, Sport and Social Sciences , Edinburgh Napier University , Edinburgh , UK.
Eur J Sport Sci. 2017 Oct;17(9):1177-1183. doi: 10.1080/17461391.2017.1353135. Epub 2017 Jul 28.
This study examined differences in the oxygenation kinetics and strength and endurance characteristics of boulderers and lead sport climbers. Using near infrared spectroscopy, 13-boulderers, 10-lead climbers, and 10-controls completed assessments of oxidative capacity index and muscle oxygen consumption (m⩒O) in the flexor digitorum profundus (FDP), and extensor digitorum communis (EDC). Additionally, forearm strength (maximal volitional contraction MVC), endurance (force-time integral FTI at 40% MVC), and forearm volume (FAV and ΔFAV) was assessed. MVC was significantly greater in boulderers compared to lead climbers (mean difference = 9.6, 95% CI 5.2-14 kg). FDP and EDC oxidative capacity indexes were significantly greater (p = .041 and .013, respectively) in lead climbers and boulderers compared to controls (mean difference = -1.166, 95% CI (-3.264 to 0.931 s) and mean difference = -1.120, 95% CI (-3.316 to 1.075 s), respectively) with no differences between climbing disciplines. Climbers had a significantly greater FTI compared to controls (mean difference = 2205, 95% CI= 1114-3296 and mean difference = 1716, 95% CI = 553-2880, respectively) but not between disciplines. There were no significant group differences in ΔFAV or m⩒O. The greater MVC in boulderers may be due to neural adaptation and not hypertrophy. A greater oxidative capacity index in both climbing groups suggests that irrespective of climbing discipline, trainers, coaches, and practitioners should consider forearm specific aerobic training to aid performance.
本研究考察了抱石者和速度攀岩者在氧合动力学、力量及耐力特征方面的差异。利用近红外光谱技术，13名抱石者、10名速度攀岩者和10名对照组人员完成了对指深屈肌（FDP）和指总伸肌（EDC）的氧化能力指数及肌肉氧消耗（m⩒O）的评估。此外，还评估了前臂力量（最大随意收缩MVC）、耐力（40%MVC时的力-时间积分FTI）以及前臂体积（FAV和ΔFAV）。与速度攀岩者相比，抱石者的MVC显著更大（平均差值=9.6，95%CI 5.2-14 kg）。与对照组相比，速度攀岩者和抱石者的FDP和EDC氧化能力指数显著更高（分别为p=0.041和0.013）（平均差值分别为=-1.166，95%CI（-3.264至0.931 s）和平均差值=-1.120，95%CI（-3.316至1.075 s）），不同攀岩项目之间无差异。与对照组相比，攀岩者的FTI显著更大（平均差值分别为=2205，95%CI=1114-3296和平均差值=1716，95%CI=553-2880），但不同项目之间无差异。ΔFAV或m⩒O在各组之间无显著差异。抱石者更大的MVC可能是由于神经适应而非肌肉肥大。两个攀岩组更高的氧化能力指数表明，无论攀岩项目如何，教练、训练师和从业者都应考虑针对前臂进行特定的有氧训练以提高表现。
