Petrov Ivanković Anja, Ćorović Marija, Milivojević Ana, Blagojević Stevan, Radulović Aleksandra, Pjanović Rada, Bezbradica Dejan
Innovation Centre of Faculty of Technology and Metallurgy, 11000 Belgrade, Serbia.
Faculty of Technology and Metallurgy, University of Belgrade, 11000 Belgrade, Serbia.
Pharmaceutics. 2024 Sep 14;16(9):1209. doi: 10.3390/pharmaceutics16091209.
Blackcurrant is an anthocyanin-rich berry with proven antioxidant and photoprotective activity and emerging prebiotic potential, widely applied in cosmetic products. Hereby, highly efficient enzyme-assisted extraction of blackcurrant polyphenols was performed, giving extract with very high antioxidant activity. Obtained extract was characterized in terms of anthocyanin composition, incorporated into three different cosmetic formulations and subjected to Franz cell diffusion study. Experimental values obtained using cellulose acetate membrane for all four dominant anthocyanins (delphinidin 3-glucoside, delphinidin 3-rutinoside, cyanidin 3-glucoside and cyanidin 3-rutinoside) were successfully fitted with the Korsmeyer-Peppas diffusion model. Calculated effective diffusion coefficients were higher for hydrogel compared to oil-in-water cream gel and oil-in-water emulsion, whereas the highest value was determined for cyanidin 3-rutinoside. On the other hand, after a 72 h long experiment with transdermal skin diffusion model (Strat-M membrane), no anthocyanins were detected in the receptor fluid, and only 0.5% of the initial quantity from the donor compartment was extracted from the membrane itself after experiment with hydrogel. Present study revealed that hydrogel is a suitable carrier system for the topical delivery of blackcurrant anthocyanins, while dermal and transdermal delivery of these molecules is very limited, which implies its applicability for treatments targeting skin surface (i.e., prebiotic, photoprotective).
黑加仑是一种富含花青素的浆果，具有已被证实的抗氧化和光保护活性以及新出现的益生元潜力，广泛应用于化妆品中。在此，进行了高效酶辅助提取黑加仑多酚的操作，得到了具有非常高抗氧化活性的提取物。对获得的提取物进行了花青素组成分析，将其掺入三种不同的化妆品配方中，并进行了弗兰兹细胞扩散研究。使用醋酸纤维素膜对所有四种主要花青素（飞燕草素3-葡萄糖苷、飞燕草素3-芸香糖苷、矢车菊素3-葡萄糖苷和矢车菊素3-芸香糖苷）获得的实验值成功地拟合了考斯迈尔-佩帕斯扩散模型。与水包油乳膏凝胶和水包油乳液相比，水凝胶的计算有效扩散系数更高，而矢车菊素3-芸香糖苷的扩散系数最高。另一方面，在使用透皮皮肤扩散模型（Strat-M膜）进行72小时的实验后，在受体液中未检测到花青素，在用凝胶进行实验后，仅从膜本身提取了供体隔室初始量的0.5%。本研究表明，水凝胶是黑加仑花青素局部递送的合适载体系统，而这些分子的真皮和透皮递送非常有限，这意味着其适用于针对皮肤表面的治疗（即益生元、光保护）。
