Vereide Vegard, Andersen Vidar, Hermans Espen, Kalland Jarle, Saeterbakken Atle Hole, Stien Nicolay
Faculty of Education, Arts and Sports, Western Norway University of Applied Sciences, Sogndal, Norway.
Faculty of Education, Arts and Sports, Western Norway University of Applied Sciences, Bergen, Norway.
Front Sports Act Living. 2022 Jun 28;4:888061. doi: 10.3389/fspor.2022.888061. eCollection 2022.
The aim of this study was to investigate the difference in climbing-specific strength and rate of force development (RFD) between intermediate, advanced, and elite male sport climbers. Seventy-eight male climbers were recruited and divided into groups based on the International Rock Climbing Research Association (IRCRA) numerical (1-32) grading system (intermediate (10-17) group (IG; = 28)), advanced (18-23) group (AG; = 30) and elite (24-27) group (EG; = 20). Peak force ( ) and average force ( ) were measured while performing an isometric pull-up on a 23 mm thick campus rung. RFD was calculated from the onset of force to maximal peak force. The elite group performed better in all test parameters than the advanced ( : 39.7%, ES = 1.40, < 0.001; : 45.6%, ES = 4.60, < 0.001; RFD: 74.9%, ES = 1.42, = 0.001) and intermediate group ( : 95.7%, ES = 2.54, < 0.001, : 131.1%, ES = 5.84, < 0.001, RFD: 154.4%, ES = 2.21, = 0.001). Moreover, the advanced group demonstrated greater (40.1%, ES = 1.24, < 0.001), (59.1%, ES = 1.57, < 0.001) and RFD (45.5%, ES = 1.42, = 0.046), than the intermediate group. Finally, climbing performance displayed strong correlations with ( = 0.73, < 0.001) and ( = 0.77, < 0.001), and a moderate correlation with RFD ( = 0.64, < 0.001). In conclusion, maximal force and RFD in a climbing specific test are greater among climbers on higher performance levels. Independent of climbing level there is a moderate-to-strong association between maximal and rapid force production and climbing performance.
本研究的目的是调查中级、高级和精英男性竞技攀岩者在攀岩特定力量和力量发展速率（RFD）方面的差异。招募了78名男性攀岩者，并根据国际攀岩研究协会（IRCRA）的数字（1 - 32）分级系统将他们分为几组：中级（10 - 17）组（IG；n = 28）、高级（18 - 23）组（AG；n = 30）和精英（24 - 27）组（EG；n = 20）。在一个23毫米厚的训练横杠上进行等长引体向上时，测量峰值力量（ ）和平均力量（ ）。RFD是从力量开始到最大峰值力量计算得出的。精英组在所有测试参数上的表现均优于高级组（ ：39.7%，ES = 1.40，p < 0.001； ：45.6%，ES = 4.60，p < 0.001；RFD：74.9%，ES = 1.42，p = 0.001）和中级组（ ：95.7%，ES = 2.54，p < 0.001， ：131.1%，ES = 5.84，p < 0.001，RFD：154.4%，ES = 2.21，p = 0.001）。此外，高级组在 （40.1%，ES = 1.24，p < 0.001）、 （59.1%，ES = 1.57，p < 0.001）和RFD（45.5%，ES = 1.42，p = 0.046）方面表现优于中级组。最后，攀岩表现与 （r = 0.73，p < 0.001）和 （r = 0.77，p < 0.001）呈强相关，与RFD呈中度相关（r = 0.64，p < 0.001）。总之，在攀岩特定测试中，表现水平较高的攀岩者的最大力量和RFD更大。无论攀岩水平如何，最大力量和快速力量产生与攀岩表现之间存在中度到强的关联。
