Stien Nicolay, Langer Kaja, Andersen Vidar, Engelsrud Gunn Helene, Olsen Elias, Saeterbakken Atle Hole
Faculty of Education Arts and Sports Western Norway University of Applied Sciences, Sogndal, Norway.
Department of Human Sciences Institute of Sports Science Technical University Darmstadt, Darmstadt, Germany.
Transl Sports Med. 2024 Jul 8;2024:5584962. doi: 10.1155/2024/5584962. eCollection 2024.
This study evaluated the effects of a five-week period of practicing specific climbing movements using a system wall on motor skills and bouldering performance compared to self-regulated, conventional bouldering. Thirteen advanced female boulderers (age: 24.5 ± 3.6 years, height: 166.9 ± 3.4 cm, and body mass: 63.4 ± 8.0 kg) were divided into an experimental group ( = 7) and a control group ( = 6). Both groups continued their normal training routines during the intervention, but the experimental group dedicated 30 minutes of their climbing time twice per week to practicing specific motor skills on a system climbing wall. Before and after the intervention, the participants attempted two boulder problems on the same wall. The performance was registered as the number of attempts to complete the boulder problems and as the highest hold reached within four attempts. Video recordings of climbers' best attempts, capturing the highest hold reached from a perspective directly behind them, were analyzed by three independent experts. The analysis was conducted using a five-point scale across six categories of movement quality. Modest enhancements in certain motor skills and performance were evident in both groups, revealing no significant distinction between them. The results underscore the efficacy of incorporating system walls into the training routines of advanced female boulder climbers, but the absence of between-group differences highlights the significance of individual preferences when choosing between conventional and system wall bouldering.
本研究评估了与自我调节的传统抱石相比,使用系统攀岩墙进行为期五周的特定攀岩动作练习对运动技能和抱石表现的影响。13名高级女性抱石者(年龄:24.5±3.6岁,身高:166.9±3.4厘米,体重:63.4±8.0千克)被分为实验组(n = 7)和对照组(n = 6)。在干预期间,两组都继续他们的正常训练程序,但实验组每周两次将30分钟的攀岩时间用于在系统攀岩墙上练习特定的运动技能。在干预前后,参与者在同一面墙上尝试两个抱石问题。表现记录为完成抱石问题的尝试次数以及在四次尝试内达到的最高抓握点。由三位独立专家对攀岩者最佳尝试的视频记录进行分析,从他们正后方的视角捕捉达到的最高抓握点。分析使用六点运动质量量表进行。两组在某些运动技能和表现上均有适度提升,两组之间无显著差异。结果强调了将系统攀岩墙纳入高级女性抱石者训练程序的有效性,但组间差异的缺乏凸显了在传统抱石和系统攀岩墙抱石之间选择时个人偏好的重要性。