Rajoo Akashni, Siva Sangeetaprivya P, Sia Chin Siew, Chan Eng-Seng, Tey Beng Ti, Low Liang Ee
Department of Chemical Engineering, School of Engineering, Monash University Malaysia, Jalan Lagoon Selatan, 47500 Bandar Sunway, Selangor Darul Ehsan, Malaysia.
Centre for Sustainable Design, Modelling and Simulation, Faculty of Engineering, Built Environment and IT, SEGi University, 47810 Petaling Jaya, Malaysia.
Eur J Pharm Biopharm. 2024 Dec;205:114572. doi: 10.1016/j.ejpb.2024.114572. Epub 2024 Oct 30.
Cosmeceuticals, focusing on enhancing skin health and appearance, heavily rely on emulsions as one of the common mediums. These emulsions pose a challenge due to their dependence on surfactants which are essential for stability but are causing concerns about environmental impact as well as evolving consumer preferences. This has led to research focused on Pickering emulsions (PEs), which are colloidal particle-based emulsion alternatives. Compared to conventional emulsions, PEs offer enhanced stability and functionality in addition to serving as a sustainable alternative but still pose challenges such as rheological control and requiring further improvement in long-term stability, whereby the limitations could be addressed through the introduction of a hydrogel network. In this review, we first highlight the strategies and considerations to optimize active ingredient (AI) absorption and penetration in a PE-based formulation. We then delve into a comprehensive overview of the potential of Pickering-based cosmeceutical emulsions including their attractive features, the various Pickering particles that can be employed, past studies and their limitations. Further, PE hydrogels (PEHs), which combines the features between PE and hydrogel as an innovative solution to address challenges posed by both conventional emulsions and PEs in the cosmeceutical industry is explored. Moreover, concerns related to toxicity and biocompatibility are critically examined, alongside considerations of scalability and commercial viability, providing a forward-looking perspective on potential future research directions centered on the application of PEHs in the cosmeceutical field.
美容化妆品专注于提升皮肤健康和外观，严重依赖乳液作为常见介质之一。这些乳液带来了挑战，因为它们依赖表面活性剂来保持稳定性，而表面活性剂引发了对环境影响以及消费者偏好变化的担忧。这促使人们开展了针对皮克林乳液（PEs）的研究，皮克林乳液是以胶体颗粒为基础的乳液替代品。与传统乳液相比，皮克林乳液除了作为一种可持续替代品外，还具有更高的稳定性和功能性，但仍面临流变学控制等挑战，并且在长期稳定性方面需要进一步改进，通过引入水凝胶网络可以解决这些局限性。在本综述中，我们首先强调在基于皮克林乳液的配方中优化活性成分（AI）吸收和渗透的策略及考虑因素。然后，我们深入全面地概述基于皮克林的美容化妆品乳液的潜力，包括其吸引人的特性、可采用的各种皮克林颗粒、以往的研究及其局限性。此外，还探讨了皮克林乳液水凝胶（PEHs），它结合了皮克林乳液和水凝胶的特性，作为一种创新解决方案，以应对美容化妆品行业中传统乳液和皮克林乳液所带来的挑战。此外，还严格审查了与毒性和生物相容性相关的问题，以及对可扩展性和商业可行性的考虑，为以皮克林乳液水凝胶在美容化妆品领域的应用为中心的潜在未来研究方向提供了前瞻性视角。
