Boira Cloe, Chapuis Emilie, Lapierre Laura, Tiguemounine Jean, Scandolera Amandine, Reynaud Romain
Science and Technology, Givaudan France SAS, Pomacle, France.
Plastic Surgery, Polyclinic of Courlancy, Reims, France.
J Cosmet Dermatol. 2025 Jan;24(1):e16613. doi: 10.1111/jocd.16613. Epub 2024 Dec 18.
Vitamin A, or retinol, is one of the most effective antiaging molecules, but it presents issues with photo-sensitivity and irritation. Alternatives are emerging, but have so far been less effective.
Here, we present a Silibum marianum extract (SME) as a retinol-like ingredient providing both safety and efficacy. SME was compared to the reference compound, retinol, and to the main alternative, bakuchiol.
Skin explants from a 58-year-old donor were treated with pure retinol (0.1%), bakuchiol (0.2%), or SME (0.8%). After 5 days, collagen and hyaluronic acid levels were analyzed. A placebo-controlled study involving 57 volunteers was also conducted, with products applied twice daily for 56 days. Results were measured by AEVA-HE and VISA.
Levels of collagen III were significantly increased by SME, by 23% and 16% compared to bakuchiol and retinol respectively. Compared to bakuchiol, SME treatment increased hyaluronic acid production by 36%. In clinical tests, SME had a significantly stronger anti-wrinkle effect than bakuchiol-reducing the number of wrinkles on the forehead by 21% and their circumference by 17%-producing effects similar to retinol, and better than bakuchiol. In the self-assessment, 43% of volunteers reported discomfort while using retinol compared to 0% for the SME formulation. By enhancing levels of collagen III-the youth collagen-and hyaluronic acid in the skin, SME paves the way for the maturation of collagen I fibrils and skin plumping.
With its stronger efficacy compared to bakuchiol and enhanced safety profile compared to retinol, SME may be the next generation of natural alternatives to retinoids.
维生素A，即视黄醇，是最有效的抗老化分子之一，但它存在光敏感性和刺激性问题。替代物不断涌现，但迄今为止效果较差。
在此，我们提出水飞蓟提取物（SME）作为一种类似视黄醇的成分，兼具安全性和有效性。将SME与参考化合物视黄醇以及主要替代物补骨脂酚进行比较。
用纯视黄醇（0.1%）、补骨脂酚（0.2%）或SME（0.8%）处理来自一名58岁捐赠者的皮肤外植体。5天后，分析胶原蛋白和透明质酸水平。还进行了一项涉及57名志愿者的安慰剂对照研究，产品每天涂抹两次，持续56天。结果通过AEVA - HE和VISA进行测量。
SME使III型胶原蛋白水平显著增加，与补骨脂酚和视黄醇相比分别增加了23%和16%。与补骨脂酚相比，SME处理使透明质酸产量增加了36%。在临床试验中，SME的抗皱效果明显强于补骨脂酚——使前额皱纹数量减少21%，皱纹周长减少17%——产生的效果与视黄醇相似，且优于补骨脂酚。在自我评估中，43%的志愿者在使用视黄醇时报告有不适感，而使用SME配方的志愿者这一比例为0%。通过提高皮肤中III型胶原蛋白（年轻胶原蛋白）和透明质酸的水平，SME为I型胶原纤维的成熟和皮肤饱满铺平了道路。
与补骨脂酚相比，SME具有更强的功效，与视黄醇相比，其安全性更高，可能成为下一代类维生素A的天然替代品。
