Cortes Natalia, Alves Izabel Almeida, Aragón Diana Marcela
Departamento de Farmacia, Facultad de Ciencias, Universidad Nacional de Colombia, Cra. 30 #45-03, Bogotá D.C. 111321, Colombia.
Faculdade de Farmácia, Departamento do Medicamento, Universidad Federal da Bahia, Rua Augusto Viana, s/n - Palácio da Reitoria, Canela, Salvador, Bahia 40110-909, Brazil.
ACS Omega. 2024 Dec 5;9(50):48884-48898. doi: 10.1021/acsomega.4c07305. eCollection 2024 Dec 17.
The cosmetics industry, characterized by innovation and dynamism, is constantly undergoing research, often guided by market trends. Although it covers various sectors, emulsifiers have had a notable impact on its development. Numerous products depend on these components, and continuous research has led to the creation of ever-better products. This Review analyzes emulsifiers for cosmetic use patented between 2013 and 2023, using Espacenet as the main database. Fifty-one patents were examined, considering the annual growth in publications, their geographic distribution, types of emulsifiers, their chemical and physical properties, chemical structures, emulsification mechanisms, and systems formed. An increase in the publication of patents was observed, with some decreases in certain years, highlighting that 86% of the patents come from China. The classification of emulsifiers revealed a predominance of those of natural origin, followed by polymeric, synthetic, and defined molecule compounds. The emulsification mechanisms of each group and the systems they formed according to the patents were also reviewed. In addition, trends in the physical and chemical properties of the emulsifiers were identified. This characterization demonstrates the growth in emulsifier research, which allows for the improvement of emulsions on the market, offering greater stability and functionality to develop superior cosmetic products.
化妆品行业以创新和活力为特点，经常在市场趋势的引导下不断进行研究。尽管它涵盖多个领域，但乳化剂对其发展产生了显著影响。众多产品依赖于这些成分，持续的研究催生了越来越好的产品。本综述以Espacenet作为主要数据库，分析了2013年至2023年间获得专利的化妆品用乳化剂。共审查了51项专利，考量了出版物的年增长情况、地理分布、乳化剂类型、化学和物理性质、化学结构、乳化机制以及形成的体系。观察到专利出版物数量有所增加，某些年份有所减少，突出显示86%的专利来自中国。乳化剂的分类显示天然来源的乳化剂占主导地位，其次是聚合物、合成和特定分子化合物。还审查了根据专利的每组乳化剂的乳化机制及其形成的体系。此外，还确定了乳化剂物理和化学性质的趋势。这一特征表明乳化剂研究的增长，这有助于改善市场上的乳液，为开发优质化妆品提供更高的稳定性和功能性。
