Martinović Milica, Nešić Ivana, Bojović Dragica, Žugić Ana, Blagojević Slavica, Blagojević Stevan, Tadić Vanja M
Department of Pharmacy, Faculty of Medicine, University of Niš, Boulevard Dr. Zorana Djindjića 81, 18108 Niš, Serbia.
Faculty for Food Technology, Food Safety and Ecology, University of Donja Gorica, Oktoih 1, 20000 Podgorica, Montenegro.
Gels. 2024 Dec 13;10(12):825. doi: 10.3390/gels10120825.
Natural deep eutectic solvents (NaDES) were employed for the extraction of bilberry and green tea leaves. This study explored the incorporation of these NaDES extracts into various carrier systems: hydrogels, emulsions, and emulgels stabilized with hydroxyethyl cellulose or xanthan gum. The results demonstrated that, when combined with synthetic UV filters, the NaDES extracts significantly enhanced the SPF and improved the antioxidant properties of the formulation. Although NaDES extracts cannot fully replace synthetic UV filters (homosalate, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, and benzophenone-4), they can serve as effective UV boosters, significantly enhancing the SPFs of formulations containing UV filters. Hence, the SPF of the formulation could be improved without increasing the concentrations of synthetic filters. Moreover, NaDES extracts, unlike UV filters, significantly increased the antioxidant potential of the formulations. Among the carriers, hydrogels with xanthan gum and emulgels with hydroxyethyl cellulose achieved the highest SPFs when containing both NaDES extracts and synthetic filters. A texture analysis further revealed that the NaDES extracts positively impacted the mechanical properties of the formulations by increasing their cohesiveness, thus enhancing their physical stability under mechanical pressure. These findings pave the way for further research into NaDES-based formulations, including in vivo testing, to optimize and confirm their efficacy on human skin and validate NaDES extracts as eco-friendly ingredients in cosmetics, with antioxidant and UV boosting potential.
天然深共熔溶剂(NaDES)被用于提取越橘和绿茶树叶。本研究探索了将这些NaDES提取物掺入各种载体体系:水凝胶、乳液以及用羟乙基纤维素或黄原胶稳定的乳胶体。结果表明,当与合成紫外线过滤剂结合时,NaDES提取物显著提高了防晒系数(SPF)并改善了配方的抗氧化性能。虽然NaDES提取物不能完全替代合成紫外线过滤剂(胡莫柳酯、甲氧基肉桂酸乙基己酯和二苯甲酮-4),但它们可作为有效的紫外线增强剂,显著提高含有紫外线过滤剂配方的SPF值。因此,无需增加合成过滤剂的浓度即可提高配方的SPF值。此外,与紫外线过滤剂不同,NaDES提取物显著提高了配方的抗氧化潜力。在这些载体中,含有NaDES提取物和合成过滤剂的黄原胶水凝胶和羟乙基纤维素乳胶体的SPF值最高。质地分析进一步表明,NaDES提取物通过增加配方的内聚力对其机械性能产生积极影响,从而增强其在机械压力下的物理稳定性。这些发现为进一步研究基于NaDES的配方铺平了道路,包括进行体内测试,以优化并确认它们对人体皮肤的功效,并验证NaDES提取物作为化妆品中具有抗氧化和紫外线增强潜力的环保成分的有效性。