LEPABE-Laboratory for Process Engineering, Environment, Biotechnology and Energy, Faculty of Engineering, University of Porto, Rua Dr. Roberto Frias, 4200-465 Porto, Portugal.
ALiCE-Associate Laboratory in Chemical Engineering, Faculty of Engineering, University of Porto, Rua Dr. Roberto Frias, 4200-465 Porto, Portugal.
Molecules. 2023 Feb 21;28(5):2037. doi: 10.3390/molecules28052037.
The cosmetic industry has been focusing on replacing synthetic ingredients with natural ones, taking advantage of their bioactive compounds. This work assessed the biological properties of onion peel (OP) and passion fruit peel (PFP) extracts in topical formulations as an alternative to synthetic antioxidants and UV filters. The extracts were characterized regarding their antioxidant capacity, antibacterial capacity and sun protection factor (SPF) value. Results revealed that the OP extract exhibited better results, which can result from the high concentrations of quercetin, as identified and quantified in HPLC analysis. Afterward, nine formulations of O/W creams were produced with minor changes in the quantity of additives: OP and PFP extract (natural antioxidants and UV filters), BHT (synthetic antioxidant) and oxybenzone (synthetic UV filter). The stability of the formulations was determined for 28 days; it was verified that they remained stable throughout the study period. The assays of the formulations' antioxidant capacity and SPF value revealed that OP and PFP extracts have some photoprotective properties and are excellent sources of antioxidants. As a result, they can be incorporated in daily moisturizers with SPF and sunscreens replacing and/or diminishing the quantities of synthetic ingredients, reducing their negative effects on human health and the environment.
化妆品行业一直致力于用天然成分替代合成成分，利用其生物活性化合物。这项工作评估了洋葱皮（OP）和西番莲果皮（PFP）提取物在局部制剂中的生物特性，作为合成抗氧化剂和紫外线滤光剂的替代品。提取物的抗氧化能力、抗菌能力和防晒系数（SPF）值进行了表征。结果表明，OP 提取物的效果更好，这可能是由于高效液相色谱分析中鉴定和定量的槲皮素浓度较高。之后，生产了九种 O/W 乳膏制剂，添加剂的数量略有变化：OP 和 PFP 提取物（天然抗氧化剂和紫外线滤光剂）、BHT（合成抗氧化剂）和氧苯酮（合成紫外线滤光剂）。测定了制剂的稳定性 28 天；验证了它们在整个研究期间保持稳定。制剂抗氧化能力和 SPF 值的测定表明，OP 和 PFP 提取物具有一定的光保护特性，是抗氧化剂的良好来源。因此，它们可以被纳入含有 SPF 的日常保湿霜和防晒霜中，替代和/或减少合成成分的用量，减少其对人类健康和环境的负面影响。
