Tadić Vanja M, Žugić Ana, Martinović Milica, Stanković Milica, Maksimović Svetolik, Frank Almut, Nešić Ivana
Institute for Medicinal Plant Research "Dr. Josif Pancic", Tadeusa Koscuska 1, 11000 Belgrade, Serbia.
Department of Pharmacy, Faculty of Medicine, University of Nis, Boulevard Dr. Zorana Djindjića 81, 18000 Niš, Serbia.
Pharmaceutics. 2021 Nov 12;13(11):1919. doi: 10.3390/pharmaceutics13111919.
Immortelle, as rich source of chlorogenic acid and the phloroglucinol alpha-pyrone compound arzanol, possesses anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties, affects cell regeneration, and has positive effect on many skin conditions. Hemp oil, characterized by a favorable omega-6 to omega-3 ratio, as well as an abundance of essential fatty acids and vitamin E, participates in immunoregulation and also act as an anti-inflammatory. In the present study, we examined the effect on the skin of creams and emulgels with immortelle extract and hemp oil, by comparing them to placebo samples and a non-treated control. A long-term in vivo study of biophysical skin characteristics, which lasted for 30 days, was conducted on 25 healthy human volunteers. Measured parameters were electrical capacitance of the , trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL), and skin pH and erythema index. Further, a sensory study was carried out in which the panelists had to choose descriptive terms for sensory attributes in questionnaire. The results showed that application of all preparations led to increase of skin hydration and TEWL reduction, while the skin was not irritated, and its normal pH was not disrupted. This study also showed importance of the carrier. Not only were emulgels described by panelists as preparations with better sensory properties, there was a significant difference between the skin hydration effect of emulgel with immortelle extract and hemp oil compared to the placebo emulgel, which was not the case with creams. Such findings indicated enhanced delivery of herbal active substances from emulgel compared to the cream.
蜡菊富含绿原酸和间苯三酚α-吡喃酮化合物阿尔扎诺醇，具有抗炎和抗氧化特性，影响细胞再生，对多种皮肤状况有积极作用。大麻油的特点是ω-6与ω-3比例适宜，且富含必需脂肪酸和维生素E，参与免疫调节并具有抗炎作用。在本研究中，我们通过将含有蜡菊提取物和大麻油的乳膏和乳胶与安慰剂样品及未处理的对照进行比较，研究了它们对皮肤的影响。对25名健康人类志愿者进行了为期30天的生物物理皮肤特性长期体内研究。测量的参数有皮肤电容、经表皮水分流失（TEWL）、皮肤pH值和红斑指数。此外，还进行了一项感官研究，让小组成员在问卷中为感官属性选择描述性词语。结果表明，所有制剂的应用均导致皮肤水合作用增强和TEWL降低，同时皮肤未受到刺激，其正常pH值也未受到干扰。本研究还表明了载体的重要性。小组成员不仅将乳胶描述为具有更好感官特性的制剂，与安慰剂乳胶相比，含有蜡菊提取物和大麻油的乳胶在皮肤水合作用方面存在显著差异，而乳膏则并非如此。这些发现表明，与乳膏相比，乳胶能更有效地递送草药活性物质。
