In Vitro and In Vivo Assessment of an Innovative Peeling System with Azelaic and Tranexamic Acids for Targeted Hyperpigmentation Reduction.

INTRODUCTION

Melanin, derived from tyrosine, plays a pivotal role in skin pigmentation through melanogenesis. Disruptions in this process lead to hyperpigmentation, a condition affecting skin tone and quality of life. Current treatments, including chemical peels, have limitations, highlighting the need for novel solutions. Here, we present an innovative peeling system, comprising a masque and moisturizer, formulated with a novel blend of acids, including azelaic acid (AZA) and tranexamic acid (TXA), alongside known brightening and penetration-enhancing agents for a comprehensive solution to target hyperpigmentation.

METHODS

In vitro studies assessed the ability of the novel moisturizer to inhibit ultraviolet-A (UVA)-induced melanin accumulation in human melanocytes. In a single-center, controlled study, we assessed the efficacy of the peeling system in 33 healthy female participants aged 30-55 years with moderate-to-severe hyperpigmentation over a 6-week treatment period. Skin condition was assessed using clinical photography, 3D skin topography, and clinical expert evaluation (CEE) at baseline and 6 weeks post-treatment. Participants completed a self-evaluation questionnaire at 6 weeks post-treatment.

RESULTS

In vitro findings demonstrated a concentration-dependent inhibition of melanin accumulation by the novel moisturizer. In vivo, significant reductions in dark spot number, area, and perimeter were observed at week 6, along with improvements in skin homogeneity, contrast, and brightness. Skin tone and roughness parameters also improved significantly from baseline. These findings were supported by self-evaluation findings and improvements in CEE parameters.

CONCLUSION

These data provide evidence for the efficacy of the innovative peeling system in reducing the appearance of hyperpigmentation over a 6-week treatment regimen in females with healthy skin and moderate-to-severe hyperpigmentation. The inclusion of AZA and TXA within the peeling system, along with active brightening and penetration-enhancing ingredients, may have synergistically facilitated the observed improvements. This multifaceted approach may address hyperpigmentation at the source, contributing to overall improvements in the appearance of the skin.