Wang Mi, Liu Tianqi, Wang Hao, Wang Zhenyuan, Zhang Jiaheng
School of Materials Science and Engineering, Harbin Institute of Technology (Shenzhen), Shenzhen, 518055, China.
Sauvage Laboratory for Smart Materials, Harbin Institute of Technology (Shenzhen), Shenzhen, 518055, China.
Chemistry. 2025 Jul 22;31(41):e202501323. doi: 10.1002/chem.202501323. Epub 2025 Jul 7.
The growing demand for safe and sustainable cosmetics has led to a marked inclination toward natural extracts and peptides as raw materials. In this study, we developed a sustainable system with multiple antiaging effects by combining peony extract (PE) and acetyl hexapeptide-8 (AHP8) to simultaneously treat static and dynamic wrinkles, as well as skin dullness. As the poor skin permeability of AHP8 limited its efficacy, we used a bioactive ionic liquid derived from betaine and malic acid (MA) ([Bet][MA]) as a permeation enhancer. In vitro and in vivo zebrafish experiments indicated that [Bet][MA] not only significantly enhances transdermal and cellular penetration, but also exerts synergistic anti-aging effects. While being biosafe, [Bet][MA] significantly increased the transdermal permeation, skin retention, and cellular uptake of AHP8. Theoretical calculations revealed that [Bet][MA] improved the anti-wrinkle and whitening efficacies of AHP8 and PE through supramolecular interactions; it modulated their electron cloud distribution and molecular polarity and thus intensified their affinity to target proteins. The supramolecular PE/AHP8/[Bet][MA] system demonstrated excellent radical- and reactive oxygen species-scavenging capability, collagen production, and tissue repair capability while concurrently inhibiting tyrosinase activity, motion signaling, and inflammation. The study findings pave the way for sustainable and multifunctional skincare solutions.
对安全且可持续的化妆品需求不断增长,使得人们明显倾向于使用天然提取物和肽作为原材料。在本研究中,我们通过将牡丹提取物(PE)和乙酰基六肽 -8(AHP8)相结合,开发了一种具有多种抗老化功效的可持续体系,以同时治疗静态纹和动态纹以及皮肤暗沉问题。由于AHP8的皮肤渗透性较差限制了其功效,我们使用了一种由甜菜碱和苹果酸(MA)衍生的生物活性离子液体([Bet][MA])作为渗透增强剂。体外和体内斑马鱼实验表明,[Bet][MA]不仅能显著增强透皮和细胞渗透,还能发挥协同抗老化作用。[Bet][MA]在具有生物安全性的同时,显著提高了AHP8的透皮渗透、皮肤滞留和细胞摄取。理论计算表明,[Bet][MA]通过超分子相互作用提高了AHP8和PE的抗皱和美白功效;它调节了它们的电子云分布和分子极性,从而增强了它们与靶蛋白的亲和力。超分子PE/AHP8/[Bet][MA]体系表现出优异的自由基和活性氧清除能力、胶原蛋白生成能力和组织修复能力,同时抑制酪氨酸酶活性、运动信号传导和炎症。该研究结果为可持续和多功能护肤解决方案铺平了道路。