Koukoubis T D, Cooper L W, Glisson R R, Seaber A V, Feagin J A
Division of Orthopaedic Surgery, Duke University Medical Center, Durham, NC 27710, USA.
Knee Surg Sports Traumatol Arthrosc. 1995;3(2):121-4. doi: 10.1007/BF01552388.
Upper extremity muscle injuries from rock climbing are common. Knowledge of the activity of specific muscles during climbing may allow the development of training programs to reduce these injuries. This study evaluated the electrical activity of the first interosseous (IN), brachioradialis (BR), flexor digitorum superficialis (FD), and biceps brachii (BB) muscles in seven climbers by integrated electromyography (IEMG) during finger-tip pull-ups. The climbers, with forearms pronated, performed three consecutive pull-ups. Each pull-up consisted of: (1) hanging using four fingers of each hand, (2) pull-up to maximum elbow flexion, (3) slow return to starting position. The IEMG during maximum voluntary contraction (MVC) was obtained for each muscle separately, and the IEMG was normalized to MVC. During hanging, FD showed the highest normalized IEMG (0.64 +/- 0.20). During pull-up, the highest IEMG was produced by FD (0.69 +/- 0.25) and BR (0.67 +/- 0.19), while BB showed only 0.33 +/- 0.12 and IN 0.09 +/- 0.06. During lowering, FD again had the highest IEMG (0.74 +/- 0.24), while the EMG from BR was decreased to 0.42 +/- 0.14 and BB to 0.15 +/- 0.15. BR and BB showed an abrupt peak in EMG during pull-up and lowering, as opposed to FD which remained constantly highly activated, which suggests that FD does not contribute to elbow flexion even though it crosses the elbow joint. The high activation of FD and BR may explain their elevated incidence of injury during climbing. Thus, a reduction in climbing-related muscle injuries may be achieved by a training program that emphasizes conditioning of the BR and FD muscles.
攀岩导致的上肢肌肉损伤很常见。了解攀岩过程中特定肌肉的活动情况，或许有助于制定训练计划以减少此类损伤。本研究通过积分肌电图（IEMG）评估了7名攀岩者在指尖引体向上过程中，第一骨间肌（IN）、肱桡肌（BR）、指浅屈肌（FD）和肱二头肌（BB）的电活动。攀岩者前臂旋前，连续进行三次引体向上。每次引体向上包括：（1）用双手的四根手指悬挂；（2）引体向上至最大肘部屈曲；（3）缓慢回到起始位置。分别获取每块肌肉在最大自主收缩（MVC）时的IEMG，并将IEMG标准化为MVC。在悬挂过程中，FD的标准化IEMG最高（0.64±0.20）。在引体向上过程中，FD产生的IEMG最高（0.69±0.25），BR次之（0.67±0.19），而BB仅为0.33±0.12，IN为0.09±0.06。在下降过程中，FD的IEMG再次最高（0.74±0.24），而BR的肌电图降至0.42±0.14，BB降至0.15±0.15。BR和BB在引体向上和下降过程中肌电图出现突然峰值，而FD则持续保持高度激活，这表明尽管FD跨过肘关节，但它对肘部屈曲没有贡献。FD和BR的高激活可能解释了它们在攀岩过程中较高的损伤发生率。因此，通过强调对BR和FD肌肉进行训练的训练计划，可能会减少与攀岩相关的肌肉损伤。
