Shukuwa T, Kligman A M, Stoudemayer T J
Department of Dermatology, Nagasaki University School of Medicine, Japan.
Acta Derm Venereol. 1997 Jan;77(1):29-34. doi: 10.2340/0001555577029034.
To elucidate the damage to the horny layers of human skin produced by surfactants and soaps, we evaluated the cytological alterations of corneocytes using an in vitro assay. Suction blisters, 8 mm in diameter, were raised on the forearms of young adult Caucasoids. The roofs were cut off and the viable epidermis was removed. The discs of stratum corneum were then agitated for up to 6 h at 60 degrees C in 1% solution of five soap bars of differing irritancy. Additionally, individual examples of anionic, cationic and nonionic surfactants were similarly evaluated. Measurements of corneocytes included: (1) the number released with time (disaggregation), (2) size (swelling) and (3) morphologic degradation. The effects of the cationic and non-ionic surfactants did not differ significantly from those of distilled water. The anionic surfactant caused more release and less swelling and morphological change. The test soaps had vastly different effects on the structural integrity of the stratum corneum. The harsher ones caused greater disaggregation, more swelling and greater morphologic deterioration of corneocytes, whereas the milder ones had less marked effects on these parameters. This model would be a useful screening technique for formulating milder soaps and might also provide insights into the complex modes of action of surfactants on the stratum corneum.
为阐明表面活性剂和肥皂对人体皮肤角质层的损伤，我们使用体外试验评估了角质形成细胞的细胞学改变。在年轻成年白种人的前臂上产生直径为8毫米的抽吸水疱。切除疱顶并去除活表皮。然后将角质层圆盘在60℃下于1%的五种不同刺激性肥皂条溶液中搅拌长达6小时。此外，对阴离子、阳离子和非离子表面活性剂的个别样品进行了类似评估。对角质形成细胞的测量包括：(1) 随时间释放的数量（分解）、(2) 大小（肿胀）和(3) 形态降解。阳离子和非离子表面活性剂的作用与蒸馏水的作用没有显著差异。阴离子表面活性剂导致更多的释放、更少的肿胀和形态变化。测试肥皂对角质层的结构完整性有非常不同的影响。较 harsh 的肥皂导致角质形成细胞更大程度的分解、更多的肿胀和更严重的形态恶化，而较温和的肥皂对这些参数的影响较小。该模型将是一种用于配制更温和肥皂的有用筛选技术，并且还可能为表面活性剂对角质层的复杂作用模式提供见解。
