Rooks M D
Department of Orthopaedic Surgery, Emory University School of Medicine, Atlanta, Georgia, USA.
Sports Med. 1997 Apr;23(4):261-70. doi: 10.2165/00007256-199723040-00005.
Three-quarters of elite and recreational sport climbers will suffer upper extremity injuries. Approximately 60% of these injuries will involve the hand and wrist, the other 40% will be equally divided between the elbow and the shoulder. Most injuries will be tendonopathies secondary to strains, microtrauma or flexor retinacular irritation. However, up to 30% of these injuries in up to 50% of elite climbers will involve the proximal interphalangeal (PIP) region. These injuries are more serious and consist of varying degrees of flexor digitorum sublimis insertional strains, digital fibro-osseous sheath ruptures and PIP joint collateral ligament strains. Early changes in climbing schedules, stretching and exercise habits, and protective digital taping are necessary to protect and rehabilitate these athletes.
四分之三的精英攀岩者和业余攀岩爱好者会遭受上肢损伤。其中约60%的损伤会累及手部和腕部,另外40%在肘部和肩部的分布大致相同。大多数损伤是由拉伤、微创伤或屈肌支持带刺激继发的肌腱病。然而,在高达50%的精英攀岩者中,高达30%的此类损伤会累及近端指间关节(PIP)区域。这些损伤更为严重,包括不同程度的指浅屈肌附着处拉伤、指纤维骨性鞘破裂和近端指间关节侧副韧带拉伤。尽早改变攀岩计划、伸展和锻炼习惯以及使用手指保护贴带对于保护和康复这些运动员至关重要。