Holtzhausen L M, Noakes T D
Department of Anatomy and Cell Biology, University of Cape Town Medical School, Observatory, South Africa.
Clin J Sport Med. 1996 Jul;6(3):196-203. doi: 10.1097/00042752-199607000-00010.
Sport rock climbing with its repetitive high-torque movements in gaining the ascent of a rock face or wall, often in steep overhanging positions, is associated with a unique distribution and form of upper limb injuries. In this article, we review the biomechanical aspects of sport rock climbing and the types of injuries commonly encountered in the forearm, wrist, and hand regions of elite sport rock climbers. Because elbow, forearm, wrist, and hand injuries predominate, representing 62% of the total injuries encountered, these anatomical areas have been selected for review.
The predominant source of data are the published work of Bollen et al. The remaining sources were obtained through electronic search of the Medline and Current Contents Databases (last searched May 1995). German and French articles were included in the search criteria.
Only studies dealing with acute soft tissue and overuse injuries amongst sport rock climbers were selected.
Data were extracted directly from the sourced articles.
The following injuries have been described in detail with regard to their presentation, diagnosis, treatment, and prevention amongst sport rock climbers: medial epicondylitis, brachialis tendonitis, biceps brachii tendonitis, ulnar collateral ligament sprain of the elbow, carpal tunnel syndrome, digital flexor tendon pulley sheath tears, interphalangeal joint effusions, fixed flexion deformities of the interphalangeal joints, and collateral ligament tears of the interphalangeal joints.
Many of the injuries are specific to the handhold types used by the rock climber. Accurate diagnosis and effective treatment of these unique injuries will be facilitated by a wider understanding of the biomechanical aspects of rock climbing and an awareness of the patterns and incidence of injuries in this sport.
竞技攀岩运动中,在攀爬岩壁或墙面时需反复进行高扭矩动作,且常处于陡峭的悬垂位置,这与上肢损伤的独特分布和形式相关。在本文中,我们回顾了竞技攀岩运动的生物力学方面,以及精英竞技攀岩者在前臂、腕部和手部区域常见的损伤类型。由于肘部、前臂、腕部和手部损伤占主导地位,占所遇损伤总数的62%,因此选择这些解剖区域进行综述。
主要数据来源是博伦等人发表的著作。其余来源通过对Medline和Current Contents数据库进行电子检索获得(最后检索时间为1995年5月)。检索标准中纳入了德语和法语文章。
仅选择了关于竞技攀岩者急性软组织损伤和过度使用损伤的研究。
数据直接从所引用的文章中提取。
已详细描述了竞技攀岩者中以下损伤的表现、诊断、治疗和预防:内侧上髁炎、肱肌肌腱炎、肱二头肌肌腱炎、肘部尺侧副韧带扭伤、腕管综合征、指屈肌腱滑车腱鞘撕裂、指间关节积液、指间关节固定性屈曲畸形以及指间关节侧副韧带撕裂。
许多损伤与攀岩者使用的握法类型有关。对攀岩运动生物力学方面的更广泛理解以及对该运动损伤模式和发生率的认识,将有助于准确诊断和有效治疗这些独特的损伤。