Potard G, Laugel C, Schaefer H, Marty J P
Research Unit in Dermopharmacology and Cosmetology, Faculty of Pharmacy, Châtenay-Malabry, France.
Skin Pharmacol Appl Skin Physiol. 2000 Nov-Dec;13(6):336-44. doi: 10.1159/000029941.
This article gives the results of a study whose aim was to compare the compartmental distribution and absorption of 5 UV filters, in vitro, by fresh human skin, after exposure times of 30 min and 16 h. These UV filters from BASF (octyl methoxycinnamate, benzophenone 4, benzophenone 3, octyl triazone and octocrylene) were incorporated separately in a simple oil-in-water emulsion. The composition of the emulsions was designed in order to obtain a sun protection factor of 5. Therefore the UV filters were introduced into the emulsions at different concentrations. We show that the affinity for each skin level [stratum corneum (SC), viable epidermis, dermis and receptor fluid] is different according to the test substance used. Some substances accumulated in the SC, whereas others passed through the skin very quickly and were quantified in the receptor fluid. The stripping technique allowed us to see that more than 94% of the chemical compound in the SC was in the first eight tapes. The problem of individual values below the limit of detection was raised, a correlation between the two exposure times was found (y = 1.702x - 0.105; R = 0.94) and a classification of products according to their affinity for the SC was determined.
本文给出了一项研究的结果，该研究旨在比较5种紫外线过滤剂在新鲜人体皮肤上经30分钟和16小时暴露时间后的体外隔室分布和吸收情况。这些来自巴斯夫的紫外线过滤剂（甲氧基肉桂酸辛酯、二苯甲酮4、二苯甲酮3、辛酰三嗪和双-乙基己氧苯酚甲氧苯基三嗪）分别被加入到一种简单的水包油乳液中。乳液的成分设计为获得防晒系数5。因此，紫外线过滤剂以不同浓度被引入乳液中。我们表明，根据所使用的测试物质，对每个皮肤层[角质层（SC）、活表皮、真皮和受体液]的亲和力是不同的。一些物质在角质层中积累，而其他物质则非常迅速地穿过皮肤并在受体液中被定量。剥离技术使我们能够看到角质层中超过94%的化合物在前八条胶带中。提出了低于检测限的个体值问题，发现了两个暴露时间之间的相关性（y = 1.702x - 0.105；R = 0.94），并根据产品对角质层的亲和力确定了产品分类。
