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防晒剂的流变行为及防晒系数

Rheological behavior and the SPF of sunscreens.

作者信息

Gaspar L R, Maia Campos P M B G

机构信息

Laboratory of Cosmetic Technology, Department of Pharmaceutical Sciences, Faculty of Pharmaceutical Sciences of Ribeirão Preto, University of São Paulo, Av. do Café s/n, Bairro Monte Alegre, Ribeirão Preto, SP, Brazil.

出版信息

Int J Pharm. 2003 Jan 2;250(1):35-44. doi: 10.1016/s0378-5173(02)00462-3.

Abstract

Due to a large variety of sunscreens, it is important to study among other things, the effect of the vehicle on the thickness and uniformity of sunscreen films. In this study, we determined the physical stability of five sunscreens SPF 15 (FA to FG), containing or not PVP/eicosene crosspolymer (PVP/EC), and two different self-emulsifying bases (SEB), and also evaluated the influence of the vehicle in their SPF. In the study of physical stability, formulations were stored at 25, 37 and 45 degrees C, for 28 days. Viscosity and rheological behavior of the formulations were determined using a Brookfield rheometer. Investigations of the SPF were carried out in a group of 30 volunteers (COLIPA methodology). The FC samples (phosphate-based SEB), with a lower thixotropy, showed statistically higher SPF (13.6) when compared with FB (non-ionic SEB), which presented higher thixotropy and a SPF of 9.84. The FE sample (phosphate-based SEB+PVP/EC) presented the same SPF as the FC, but had a higher thixotropy. The FB formulation (stable with higher thixotropy) showed the lowest SPF while FC (an unstable formulation with lower thixotropy) presented a higher SPF. We concluded that FE was the best formulation showing a higher SPF and stability and the study of rheology can help the development of sunscreens.

摘要

由于防晒产品种类繁多,除其他因素外,研究载体对防晒膜厚度和均匀性的影响很重要。在本研究中,我们测定了五种防晒系数为15的防晒霜(FA至FG)的物理稳定性,这些防晒霜含有或不含聚乙烯吡咯烷酮/二十碳烯交联聚合物(PVP/EC),以及两种不同的自乳化基质(SEB),并评估了载体对其防晒系数的影响。在物理稳定性研究中,将配方在25、37和45摄氏度下储存28天。使用布鲁克菲尔德流变仪测定配方的粘度和流变行为。防晒系数的研究是在一组30名志愿者中进行的(采用COLIPA方法)。与具有较高触变性且防晒系数为9.84的FB(非离子SEB)相比,触变性较低的FC样品(磷酸盐基SEB)的防晒系数在统计学上更高(13.6)。FE样品(磷酸盐基SEB + PVP/EC)的防晒系数与FC相同,但触变性更高。FB配方(触变性较高且稳定)的防晒系数最低,而FC(触变性较低且不稳定的配方)的防晒系数较高。我们得出结论,FE是表现出较高防晒系数和稳定性的最佳配方,流变学研究有助于防晒产品的开发。

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