Stamatas G N, Estanislao R B, Suero M, Rivera Z S, Li J, Khaiat A, Kollias N
Johnson & Johnson Consumer Products Worldwide, Skillman, NJ, USA.
Br J Dermatol. 2006 Jan;154(1):125-32. doi: 10.1111/j.1365-2133.2005.06949.x.
Throughout life facial skin is exposed to a variety of adverse environmental conditions and is constantly required to repair itself. The rate of epidermal cell proliferation is indicative of the skin's repair rate and can be monitored noninvasively in vivo using skin intrinsic fluorescence markers.
The goal of the present study was to assess the effects of ageing, geographical region, ethnic origin and season on the ability of facial skin to repair itself in the presence of chronic environmental insults using in vivo fluorescence spectroscopy.
Skin fluorescence emission was measured on the cheeks of 522 individuals in winter and repeated in summer in five different geographical locations in the Asia-Pacific region. Fluorescence emission was also measured from 80 caucasians of fair complexion in the United States (New Jersey area) on the face and on a relatively protected area (upper inner arm). The age range of the participants was 14-75 years.
We found that epidermal proliferation rates decrease monotonically with age, while the fluorescence of collagen and elastin cross-links increases with age indicating accumulation of advanced glycation end-products. These trends were independent of geographical region, ethnic origin and season of measurement. Epidermal proliferation rates of facial skin were higher than those of unexposed sites; they may be 10 times higher in younger (second decade) than in older (seventh decade) individuals, and they decrease with age at rates 10 times faster compared with those of unexposed sites.
This is the first time that epidermal proliferation and its dependence on ageing have been measured noninvasively on the human face. The higher tryptophan fluorescence values on the face vs. the protected site are indicative of accelerated rates of epidermal proliferation in the presence of chronic environmental insults. The repair potential of facial skin, i.e. its ability to maintain high proliferation rates, is maximal in younger populations and gradually decreases with age.
在整个生命过程中，面部皮肤会暴露于各种不利的环境条件下，并不断需要自我修复。表皮细胞增殖速率指示皮肤的修复速率，并且可以使用皮肤固有荧光标记在体内进行非侵入性监测。
本研究的目的是使用体内荧光光谱法评估衰老、地理区域、种族起源和季节对慢性环境损伤下面部皮肤自我修复能力的影响。
在亚太地区五个不同地理位置，于冬季对522名个体的脸颊进行皮肤荧光发射测量，并在夏季重复测量。还对美国（新泽西地区）80名肤色白皙的高加索人的面部和相对受保护区域（上臂内侧）进行了荧光发射测量。参与者的年龄范围为14至75岁。
我们发现表皮增殖速率随年龄单调下降，而胶原蛋白和弹性蛋白交联的荧光随年龄增加，表明晚期糖基化终产物的积累。这些趋势与地理区域、种族起源和测量季节无关。面部皮肤的表皮增殖速率高于未暴露部位；在较年轻（第二个十年）个体中可能比年长（第七个十年）个体高10倍，并且与未暴露部位相比，其随年龄下降的速度快10倍。
这是首次在人脸上非侵入性地测量表皮增殖及其对衰老的依赖性。面部相对于受保护部位较高的色氨酸荧光值表明在慢性环境损伤存在的情况下表皮增殖速率加快。面部皮肤的修复潜力，即其维持高增殖速率的能力，在较年轻人群中最大，并随年龄逐渐降低。
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