Trüeb Ralph M
Department of Dermatology and Hair Consultation Clinic, University Hospital of Zurich, Switzerland.
J Cosmet Dermatol. 2005 Jun;4(2):60-72. doi: 10.1111/j.1473-2165.2005.40203.x.
The appearance of hair plays an important role in people's overall physical appearance and self-perception. With today's increasing life expectation, the desire to look youthful plays a bigger role than ever. The hair care industry has become aware of this and also more capable to deliver active products that are directed toward meeting this consumer demand. The discovery of pharmacological targets and the development of safe and effective drugs also indicate strategies of the drug industry for maintenance of healthy and beautiful hair. Hair aging comprises weathering of the hair shaft and aging of the hair follicle. The latter manifests as decrease of melanocyte function or graying, and decrease in hair production in androgenetic and senescent alopecia. The scalp is also subject to intrinsic or physiologic aging and extrinsic aging caused by external factors. Intrinsic factors are related to individual genetic and epigenetic mechanisms with interindividual variation. Prototypes are familial premature graying and androgenetic alopecia. Extrinsic factors include ultraviolet radiation and smoking. Experimental evidence supports the hypothesis that oxidative stress plays a role in skin and hair aging. Topical anti-aging compounds for hair include humefactants, hair conditioners, photoprotectors, and antioxidants. Current available treatment modalities with proven efficacy for treatment of androgenetic alopecia are topical minoxidil, oral finasteride, and autologous hair transplantation. In the absence of another way to reverse hair graying, hair colorants are the mainstays of recovering lost hair color. Topical liposome targeting for melanins, genes, and proteins selectively to hair follicles are under current investigation.
头发的外观在人们的整体外貌和自我认知中起着重要作用。随着如今预期寿命的不断提高，看起来年轻的愿望比以往任何时候都发挥着更大的作用。护发行业已经意识到这一点，并且更有能力提供旨在满足这种消费者需求的活性产品。药理学靶点的发现以及安全有效药物的开发也表明了制药行业维持头发健康美丽的策略。头发老化包括毛干的老化和毛囊的老化。后者表现为黑素细胞功能减退或头发变白，以及雄激素性脱发和老年性脱发中毛发产生减少。头皮也会受到内在或生理性老化以及外部因素引起的外在老化的影响。内在因素与个体遗传和表观遗传机制有关，存在个体差异。典型例子是家族性早老性白发和雄激素性脱发。外在因素包括紫外线辐射和吸烟。实验证据支持氧化应激在皮肤和头发老化中起作用这一假说。用于头发的局部抗衰老化合物包括保湿剂、护发素、光保护剂和抗氧化剂。目前已证实对雄激素性脱发有效的治疗方法是局部使用米诺地尔、口服非那雄胺和自体毛发移植。在没有其他方法可以逆转头发变白的情况下，染发剂是恢复失去的头发颜色的主要手段。目前正在研究将局部脂质体靶向黑素、基因和蛋白质选择性地作用于毛囊。
