Beiersdorf AG, Hamburg, Germany.
Int J Cosmet Sci. 2001 Feb;23(1):3-14. doi: 10.1046/j.1467-2494.2001.00048.x.
The UVA protection delivered by sunscreens is an issue of increasing importance due to the increasing knowledge about UVA-induced skin damage. In Europe there is no officially accepted method available to determine the degree of UVA protection. Therefore, the objective of the present study was to design a protocol combining the merits of an in vitro model, which are simple and reproducible, with aspects known to be relevant from in vivo studies. The principle is: an UV-transparent support to which the test product is applied, a (pre)irradiation and a transmission measurement. Transpore(R) tape (standard support for SPF determinations) was found to be incompatible with many preparations on prolonged contact times. Roughened quartz was adopted as a suitable alternative. Transmission measurements on this support are not reliable with a layer of 2 mg cm(-2) (standard for SPF) due to detection limitations of spectrophotometers, hence a reduced layer of 0.75 mg cm(-2) was adopted. Overall, it is very difficult to apply products in a reproducible thin layer on appropriate substrates. As a consequence, absolute parameters derived from the transmission profile show relatively large dispersion, whereas relative parameters, such as critical wavelength lambda(c)[1] or UVA/UVB ratio are much less sensitive to unavoidable variations in layer thickness. An increase in deviations was observed when the samples were irradiated before measurement. It is crucial to control the output carefully (spectral distribution and even more importantly, irradiance and dose delivered) of the light source. By doing so and also taking into account the previous learning steps, a protocol was drafted and tested in a ringtest (four samples in six laboratories). The results are encouraging and show that if relative parameters (e.g. lambda(c), UVA/UVB ratio) are considered, the intra- as well as interlaboratory reproducibility is clearly better than can be obtained in vivo. In general, we describe a suitable method, which can be considered in any future official discussions about the methodology to determine UVA protection.
防晒霜提供的 UVA 防护因人们对 UVA 引起的皮肤损伤的了解不断增加而变得越来越重要。在欧洲,还没有一种被官方认可的方法可以确定 UVA 防护程度。因此,本研究的目的是设计一种方案,将体外模型的优点(简单且可重复)与体内研究中已知相关的方面结合起来。其原理是:使用一个透明的 UV 支撑物来涂抹测试产品,进行(预)辐照和透射测量。Transpore(R) 胶带(SPF 测定的标准支撑物)在长时间接触时与许多制剂不相容,而粗糙的石英被选为合适的替代品。由于分光光度计的检测限制,在该支撑物上进行的 2mgcm(-2)(SPF 标准)的透射测量不可靠,因此采用了 0.75mgcm(-2)的较薄涂层。总体而言,很难在适当的基质上以可重复的薄层均匀地涂抹产品。因此,从透射谱中得出的绝对参数显示出相对较大的分散性,而相对参数,如临界波长 lambda(c)[1]或 UVA/UVB 比值对层厚度不可避免的变化则不那么敏感。当在测量前对样品进行辐照时,观察到偏差增加。因此,必须仔细控制光源的输出(光谱分布,更重要的是辐照度和剂量)。通过这样做并考虑到之前的学习步骤,起草了一份协议并在环试(六个实验室中的四个样品)中进行了测试。结果令人鼓舞,表明如果考虑相对参数(例如 lambda(c),UVA/UVB 比值),则实验室内部和实验室之间的可重复性明显优于体内获得的可重复性。总的来说,我们描述了一种合适的方法,可在未来任何关于确定 UVA 防护的方法学的官方讨论中考虑。